After the fresh, clean lines and textural adventures of Cimone SS17, for AW17 the label took a much darker, almost gothic turn. As the first model stood, silhouetted at the far end of the catwalk, to a soundtrack ominous and powerful, it was clear this show was going to be nothing like the season before. Dark lipped models with whited out skin and zombie eyes wore intensely structured pieces accentuating waists and shoulders. High collars and wimple style headpieces hinted at power and religious intent and there seemed to be a multitude of cultural references, from a vibrant orange, pink and black two piece with toreador shaping, to the lines of a karate gi.
The combination of restrictive design and aesthetic rebellion could be explained by the collection inspiration: “At every corner a sense of rebellion bubbles under the surface, waiting to erupt from the strictures of convention.”However, this wasn’t conceptual at the expense of all else – pieces like the dogtooth check coord and the black belted capelet coat were very wearable (zombie eyes optional). We particularly loved two skirts constructed from tiers of ruffles, which had a decadent, doll-like feel.