Show report: Fei Fei Cicada Fashion Scout SS17 London Fashion Week

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

It was quite a debut for Fei Fei Cicada at Fashion Scout this season, with a wonderfully opulent and indulgent show in the inspirational setting of the V&A. In total contrast to many of the more commercial collections, this was unapologetically ostentatious, from the gloriously oversize ruffs and excessive skirt circumference, to the hats that grew into veils and umbrellas that were virtually tents. Luxe fabrics rustled as the calf and floor length gowns processed regally through the show space. However, this was no costume exhibition – the play on silhouette and proportion, a mix of more contemporary fabrics and the occasional flash of exposed skin reminded us that this was September 2016, not 1600. Chinese designer Fei graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2012 with a collection designed around Ming vases, complete with a structural tribute and trailing blooms. Her love of historic style and opulence through the ages, combined with a healthy respect for non-conformism, make her a designer to watch for every season.

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Fei Fei Cicada SS17

Images shot by Maps Studios for The Glass Pineapple