Ana Ljubinkovic SS17
Ana Ljubinkovic could have been designing uniforms for a Pierre Herme army with her SS17 collection, which featured all the colours of our favourite sweet things, from sugary rose through to kitsch pistachio. But it wasn’t all light and fluffy indulgence for SS17, with inspiration drawn from less saccharine sources, such as the unnerving dolls in Jan Svankmajer’s short film ‘Jabberwocky.’ The military lines of Ljubinkovic’s headwear and the disciplined structuring, strict corseting and relentless waistlines added a layer of edge to the overall sweetness. And the skilful blending of elements of couture extravagance with a stark and contemporary aesthetic gave the collection a really innovative and exciting feel.
Anissa Aida SS17
Born in Paris, Tunisian designer Anissa Aida is a Parsons grad with a heritage-rich vein to her very contemporary designs. Her SS17 collection – a Ones to Watch winner – showed a real appreciation of cultural fashion history, from the sarouel pants of Persia, to kimonos, mandarin collars and chopsticks pinioning hair that spoke of a love for Oriental silhouette and design. However, it was the tailoring that we were still thinking about after the last model had stepped off the catwalk. Simple, laid back and blue (so blue), it was a collection of neatly worked essentials that cleverly made a sometimes-restrictive style of dress so much more laid back and cool.
Billie Jacobina SS17
“Sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast,”said Lewis Carroll, the author of Alice in Wonderland – the inspiration for the SS17 collection from GFW Indonesian Residency Award and Ones to Watch winner Billie Jacobina. We think Carroll and his cast of crazy beautiful colourful characters would have undoubtedly believed in the impossibly uplifting chaos of sequins, prints, colours and textures that gave life to Billie’s ‘Luna’ – her mermaid interpretation of Alice. Sea creature themed prints and embroidery, a wild rainbow of colours, platinum blonde wigs and a holographic coat adorned with tufts of faux pink fur made maximum, creative impact. It was a fabulous collection in every sense of the word.
Ester Kubisz SS17
Perhaps the most subdued of the Ones to Watch collections Ester Kubisz’, monochrome SS17 show used the simplicity of deconstruction to convey a theme of reworked corporate gloom. From stifling boardrooms and crowded rush hours, Ester liberated pinstripes and traditional tailoring, giving it new life in the form of raw edged, gender fluid looks that often faded away into shreds. Although the collection was originally designed as menswear its easy transition to unisex style demonstrated its versatility and broad appeal.
Images shot by Maps Studios for The Glass Pineapple