Devon Halfnight Leflufy
Canada may be famous for its yoga-loving PM, maple syrup and Avril Lavigne but it’s also a hotbed for some pretty impressive fashion talents too – Erdem, Patrick Cox, Devon Halfnight LeFlufy and Edeline Lee all hail from these northerly lands. Vancouver Fashion Week FW17 starts today (20th March) and if, like us, you’re a keen seeker of emerging fashion talent, it’s something of a goldmine. Below are eight designers to look out for this week.
(Image: Schon Magazine)
With an artistic and plastic arts background, Armine Ohanyan was never going to be satisfied producing 2D designs. A wealth of textures and textiles define the aesthetic of this label, which has a tendency toward colour and an unconventional sense of styling. The Armenian born designer behind the brand has drawn on influences, from Japanese artist Kohei Nawa, to the cycles of nature, to create pieces that are bold, modern and innovative. She has an unconventional view of fashion: “I believe that if getting dressed is a necessity, then fashion is the art of necessity.”
Designer Stephanie Moscall-Varey’s fascination with shape and construction is evident in every piece she makes, some of which seem to defy the laws of fashion gravity. A childhood on a small fishing and farming community in Southern Ontario has infused all her work with an appreciation of nature, from the colours of the natural world, to its shapes and cycles. Intricate prints and challenging textures, silhouette manipulation and line distortions produce pieces that sit somewhere between fashion and art.
Viktoria Tisza launched her label in 2012 with a collection of swimwear styles that started quite a journey for the Budapest based designer. Since then she has seen her work grace the pages of Vogue and the curves of Beyonce, for whom she has designed tour costumes – bodysuits and dresses. Her SS17 collection was minimal, using industrial textures and boxy shapes against the curves of the female form. For AW17 wool yarn is the signature texture; crocheted, latch hooked and braided, creating a series of looks around the concept of overbaked attachments and how to break free.
Showing at Vancouver Fashion Week as Celestine Studio, Australian fashion designer Christy Law is one to watch for those who go mad for prints. Feminine and sophisticated, the designs bring together a love for modern silhouettes, an appreciation of textures, as well as the influences of the designer’s Asian heritage. Christy’s work focuses on textile design and screen printing, which includes flocking and foiling, – the designs are artistic and rich, making strong connections between cultural aesthetics.
Spanish born designer Arantxa Morcillo studied in London and went on to complete an internship at Gareth Pugh studio. Her work is experimental and individual, often looking to rework the traditions of her native Spain into a more modern and cutting edge aesthetic. Her SS15 Splintered collection was an all white series of looks influenced by the rather sinister looking Nazarenos, as well as imperfection and the fragility of surfaces. Her AW17 collection ‘Memories’ tells the story of her heritage via a series of black and white photos, sepia-drenched reminders of style days gone by.
Japanese designer Mizumachi has a list of prizes as long as your arm, collecting numerous gongs for a relentlessly bright and colourful aesthetic that takes deconstruction and reconstruction as central themes. The most recent collection explores ideas of nostalgia, childhood obsessions and reimagination of everything from climbing frames to cartoon graphics. Expect this to be one of the most colourful and inventive shows of the week.
One of the most visually innovative and challenging labels on the schedule, Kakopieros pursues an aesthetic built of dichotomies, from order and chaos, to light and shadow. The designs are politically charged and visually creative, combining textures as diverse as latex and bonded silk to explore those themes of contrast and balance. The work is also deeply personal, intimately infused with the designer’s thoughts, sympathies, fears and wants.
Danish designer Camilla Askholm brings a classically Scandinavian sense of minimalism to Vancouver Fashion Week proceedings. Clean lines and monochromatic colours leave the innovative design elements to speak for themselves, from 3D textures, to geometric details. Silhouette, fabrics and composition form the basis of the designer’s approach with sustainability playing a key role in the creation of each piece.