Luxury womenswear is not necessarily something one associates with the basement of a cold, damp car park in Soho, but the juxtaposition worked beautifully with Micol Ragni’s audacious new offering in urban grey, jet black, shocking white and traffic cone orange.
Known for her structural silhouettes and thoroughly considered styling, Ragni creates conceptual pieces for the intelligent individual, without compromising on realistic wearability. And this Autumn/Winter range was no different; the ever-critical eyes of the FROW ogled over these street-style ready looks without hesitation.
Walking to a soundscape of house-meets-trance, a diverse cast of models in sharp geometric hair and make-up, some vaping on e-cigs as they walked confidently to the edge of the Q-park, showcased deconstructed tailoring of impressive technique and quality. Shirts hung back-to-front from elongated straps, jackets had sleeves pointing in multiple directions, and dresses featured several jarring, somewhat random seams.
But it was the shoes in this collection that completely stole the show; oversized thigh high boots with supersize platforms in monochrome patent leather that morphed into baggy trousers; the opposite of Balenciaga’s skin tight sock boots, instead reminiscent of waterproof waders worn by fishermen, only with a 12 inch heel, and sometimes covered in glitter.
This outerwear-inspired theme continued with quilted puffas, nylon wrap coats and vinyl hoods; basically, anything that rustles when you move; so no subtle entrances here. These bold textures were married with soft mesh and tulle, creating futuristic yet feminine new shapes.
A promising start to London Fashion Week, Micol Ragni’s offering was thoroughly modern, with a Blade Runner meets Mad Max vibe to the overall atmosphere of the show, and some intriguing pieces that the fashion magpie’s eye desired to linger on a little longer than the brief catwalk stride. For this contemporary city designer, trends are not blindly followed, but distorted into a new aesthetic dystopia of her own imagination.
By Ruth MacGilip. Images provided by POP PR.