Lunyee SS19 London Fashion Week

Lunyee studio is a group of new generation Chinese designers, with London College of Fashion graduates Saini Chan and Sophie Han at the helm. Each season the group of designers works collaboratively to release a collection under the Lunyee name.

For SS19 it was a show of two parts, with the first half providing a neo-gothic vibe, and the second featuring lighter colours and iridescent detailing. Dark mesh, chunky biker boots and pocket chains gave way to pearlescent green fabrics and metallic streamer armlets.

Lunyee’s styles are androgynous. They are tough yet delicate; beautifully structured yet undone. Formal dresses were made casual with unfinished detailing, and suits were worn with biker boots. Whimsical iridescent fabric featured on a plastic rain mac styled as a hood - rather than with a hood. This collection wasn’t about breaking the style rules - it was about remoulding them. Lunyee’s designs are not for the self-conscious. There were nods to both traditional Chinese garms and space age fashion. Dǒulì hats were re-imagined in black caging and teamed with illuminated Perspex bags. Meanwhile, oriental tassels and intricate embroidery embellished postmodern boxy cuts, and the outfits were completed by safety visor-style glasses.

An audible gasp of appreciation came from the audience as a shimmering mint-coloured yeti coat appeared on the runway. An iridescent sequin and denim dress continued this ethereal vibe.

The Lunyee collective have their finger on the pulse of cutting edge Chinese fashion. Their SS19 show made a strong case for why London Fashion Week should continue to embrace multiculturalism.

By Alice Cruickshank.