Absurdity and transformation formed the key components to Underage’s SS19 Collection, “Lucid Dreams,” shown at London Fashion Week this season. This label was established in 2017 and has absolutely no qualms about pushing the boundaries of colour, aesthetics and fantasy. Inspiration is drawn from the realms of pop culture and nostalgia – for this season it was the era of the ‘Club Kid,’ which was peaking during the late 80s and early 90s and brought a wild new love of liberation into fashion.
Neon seemed to be a theme at many of the SS19 shows and Underage used it in bursts of vivid and random colour, applying it to everything from boots to tops. A spring-like palette of yellow and green dominated, controlled and contained by fabrics such as wool, cotton and distressed denim. The Underage denim is an interesting study, designed to take the trend in distressed denim a little further - in the SS19 collection it was mixed with shirting and tailored fabrics, paired with embroidery and set against the context of bright colours.
Much of the collection was designed around Erik Erikson’s “Four stages of the identity crisis” and the idea of being held prisoner by one’s own notion of identity was a strong theme. Underage’s androgynous designs are clearly crafted with disruption in mind, both in terms of the way fabrics and aesthetics are traditionally used and also the way clothes make women feel. The transformational element of the SS19 collection took daywear apart and then reconstructed it in a totally different way. It was a subtle statement that showed just what can be achieved when past ideas and perspectives are thrown out.
By Alexandra Pett. Images shot for us by Stefan Jakubowski.