The SS19 collection was shown in the opulent space of The Royal Horseguards, the ideal setting for an otherworldly show that was made even more magical by an illustrated backdrop and props. Tulle dominated the designs from the first model, wrapping bodies in neon layers and edging scarlet corset dresses the size of a postage stamp. Shapes were almost aggressively feminine, framing the female form in a variety of ways, from barely covered to swathed in soft, flowing fabrics in delicate shades of dusky pink and vintage ivory. Contrast was plentiful, between structured and flowing, concealed and revealed, and many of the earlier looks sported a distinctive “parting seams” detail.
Vibrant colours were a key theme for SS19 and neons were explored here as in many other collections this season – a tiered tulle dress, structured, ankle length and almost completely sheer was modernised by the use of a stinging citrus coloured fabric. Dresses dominated the collection and each model emerging between the giant toadstools of the set wore a potential showstopper, each one very different in style. Despite an overwhelming feel of vintage glamour, asymmetric lines, cut outs and sheer panels kept it modern. Embellishment, metallics, layers, lace, feathers and clever corsetry created blurred lines between gowns for the boudoir and the bar, and sheerness was a constant theme – every look had it and was somehow rendered more delicate and magical as a result.
Despite the translucence of many of the looks, the collection was a wearable one. The creatively feminine concoctions brought a diverse, rich and striking style to the SS19 catwalks that marked this label out as a creative presence to watch.
By Alex Pett. Images shot for us by Hannah Gordon-Smith.