Supriya Lele SS19 London Fashion Week

Against a staggering set, which utilised cloth and bamboo structures designed by legendary set designer Amy Stickland, Surpriya Lele presented an intriguing collection informed by her Indian heritage and British upbringing. With elements of traditional dress through sari fabric and ornate embroidery, plus ultra-modern minimalism and sensual layering, this was East-meets-West in the most subtle and contemporary way.

Like the backdrop, each piece married gentle femininity with industrial construction. Soft, sheer tulle and chiffon was draped elegantly around the models, while toggles, poppers, buckles and zips brought the girl back into the city. Contrast was further explored through colour, with pared-back mauve, beige and black meeting neon orange, lime and pink. The cherry on top was the Manolo Blahnik kitten heels paired with every look, adding a prim, ladylike touch to slouchy, relaxed silhouettes and somewhat disheveled textures.

The standout look was a bubblegum pink crochet bra, created by knitwear designer Holly Davis, embellished with beautiful beadwork and worn over an aquamarine mesh tank top, which was creatively styled with heavy mauve combat pants, on a buzzcut model. An aesthetic masterpiece of modern fashion, and probably the most covetable pieces for a buyer’s top wish list.

Jewellery was delicately added to the outfits, as designed by Lele’s long-term collaborator, the award-winning Husam El Odeh. Some of this came in the form of golden ear cuffs with hanging chains, reflecting the graceful, body-hugging drape of Lele’s dresses. Hair and makeup added the final finesse this coolly casual collection needed, via iridescent lilac eyeshadow, fresh-faced glowing skin and slick scraped back locks.

If one word were to encapsulate the Supriya Lele SS19 collection- and her first ever solo presentation at London Fashion Week-  that word would be “balance.”The Fashion East alumni balances cultures, colours, eras and archetypes; juxtaposing perceived opposites without harsh contrast, instead opting for refined and gentle elegance.

By Ruth MacGilp. Images shot for us by Hannah Gordon-Smith.