The AW19 season is imminent and that means a whole fresh swathe of new fashion talent to discover. The first ripples always come from Fashion Scout with the announcement of the Ones to Watch for the new season. For AW19 the designers who made the cut are: Aurélie Fontan, Shie Lyu, 1x1 Studio and Bowen Hu.
Designer Aurélie Fontan has come up through the ranks at Graduate Fashion Week – where her creations received no less than six nominations in awards categories such as Sustainable and Ethical and Catwalk Textiles. It’s this theme that dominates the designs, which are innovative and ethical. The designer has had a fascinating journey up to this point, which has included being commissioned by SAMSUNG to make the first 90% recycled and biodegradable Couture collection, entirely designed and manufactured through a smartphone. Her graduate collection was “grown” in a science lab – engineered with the help of 100% biodegradable Kombucha. If that sounds intriguing then look out for this show during AW19 at Fashion Scout, which is designed as a utopian look at sustainably and ethically produced luxury clothing. Aurélie Fontan’s brand of eco friendly luxury “techno-craft” is unlikely to disappoint.
Another fascinatingly innovative talent, Chinese designer Shie Lyu has built a label around meticulous construction and sculptural silhouettes. The collections so far have walked a fine line between fashion and maths or fashion and engineering – expect intricate construction with haute couture beading alongside materials such as rubber and Perspex. Shie Lyu is a Parson’s graduate who loves a formula when it comes to the fashion that she creates. However, what’s interesting is that despite the mathematician’s approach to designing, the end results are rather romantic and intimate – the AW19 collection will provide the perfect illustration of this synergy. Shie has already showcased at New York Fashion Week and was a 2019 semifinalist for the H&M Design Award.
Taiwan born, London based Yi-Ling Kuo is the brains behind 1 x 1 studio, a fashion label with a focus on menswear and innovative knits. Collaboration is the name of the game at 1 x 1 Studio and the label works closely with a range of talent in a way that is mutually beneficial. The current collaboration is with menswear designer Wei Yao Lin. Multiple references have influenced the 1 x 1 aesthetic, from streetwear and crafting techniques through to the relationship between humans and technology. Sustainability and eco-fashion also have a big role to play with sustainable materials prioritised and a keen desire to reduce waste whilst designing and producing. The AW19 collection combines Greek legend with an examination of state-of-the-art technology from the present to the 80s.
Where art meets fashion – this is the boundary where New York label Bowen Hu has started to flex some muscle. The unisex collections from this label have the potential of a dual purpose, either to psychologically or physically support the wearer and environment or to be exhibited as a piece of art. It’s the detail of each piece that allows it to be so versatile, something that comes from the designer’s background in textiles. These are handmade with a ‘side on’ layering technique so that the edge of the fabric provides the surface of the garment. All this makes for the kind of pieces that you just want to touch, gaze at and explore. The AW19 collection ‘Lucid Dream’ is inspired by subconscious mind and brainwave patterns.
The Ones to Watch show will take place at 13.30 on Sunday 17thFebruary at Fashion Scout.