Jolin Wu AW19 Fashion Scout

Jolin Wu's newest collection, titled, 'The crescent moon and the stars are a riot,' featured post-apocalyptic vibes, as traditional fabrics and tailoring were given a deconstructed makeover in futuristic colours. The show opened with a projection of a vintage photograph of a crowd watching a lunar eclipse - the collection was inspired by a delicate balance of past, present and future. There were nods to retro sportswear, the current neon trend, and space-age deconstructed looks. This was a dark and stormy runway, with a soundtrack of minimalist house and punk.

AW19 saw Wu introduce her first menswear collection, and the pieces had an androgynous appeal. Punky-looking male models wore a baby pink coat, a navel-revealing oversized raincoat, a slip dress-style tunic layered over leggings, and outfits accessorised with circular faux-fur pouches. Meanwhile, female models wore oversized tailored trousers and boxy masculine blazers, and were styled with slick hair.

Wu was inspired by the beauty of disorder, and the runway featured unconventional styling. A country-style quilted coat was presented as a skirt, while long coats were worn open over sheer camisoles or bare chests. Fabrics including wool, silk, cotton, lace and waterproofs were blended together to create outfits with a haphazardly chic edge. A neutral palette of autumnal browns, greys, khaki and navy were accented with bold royal blue, rich red, and the season's must have colour - lime green.

The moon motif introduced at the opening of the show was recurrent across the collection, featuring on sweatshirts and zipper jackets. Three models in silver satin slips brought the show to a close, as they presented glowing moon-like orbs down the runway to an enthralled audience. For her AW19 showcase, Wu has taken inspiration from a time before digital technology offered instant answers, and sublime wonder was enough to capture our collective attention. She asks us to slow down, and to again find the magic of the universe, embodied through the dark comfort of her collection.

By Alice Cruickshank. Shot for us by Hannah Gordon-Smith.