Gayeon Lee AW19 London Fashion Week

Inspired by the works of Pierre Boncompain, Gayeon Lee kicked off AW19 with a presentation in the 18th century Crypt at St-Martin-in-the-Fields for London Fashion Week. The conceptually-driven collection referenced the artist’s luminous colour palette, exploring the celebratory nature of Boncompain’s works with a nod to his characteristically Post-Impressionistic clarity of light and radiance, whilst maintaining the signature graceful asymmetry of Lee’s impeccably tailored creations.

For AW19 we saw a mélange of florals and plaid menswear-inspired checks; alternating panels of textures and print showed the designer’s fascination with asymmetry and playful manipulation of silhouettes, an element that has become synonymous with the Gayeon Lee aesthetic. Skirts were full, gathered and draped for movement with nipped in waists and intriguing hemlines, whilst playful pleats and drawstring detailing added fluidity to the designs. Inspired by Boncompain, AW19 resonated with the French painter’s exquisite feel for colour; innovative layering techniques created depth and dimension in complementary tones of neutral taupe, buttermilk, indigo, and charcoal, offset with accents of luminous rose, powder pink, and sky blue.

Lee maintains a characteristic fluidity in her designs, with intricately cut frocks and gentle structured tailoring in textures of wool, crisp cottons, and printed silks and crepes. Accessories included statement colour blocking on pyramid bags with abstract metal handles, and two-tone ankle boots. Founded in 2015, the eponymous brand has established a unique use of texture, colour, and calculated deconstruction that has become a part of its distinctive aesthetic, with an impeccable attention to detail in subtle draping techniques.

Jackets were cropped with oversized statement collars, paired with delicately textured skirts with asymmetrical pleats and contrast patch pockets in soft multi-tonal woven wool. Dresses took a fresh interpretation on nostalgic silhouettes, with delicate buttercup yellow florals and ankle-skimming midi hemlines in softest sky blue cinched and belted at the waist. Longline jackets were given a twist on traditional menswear tailoring.

The standout look of the collection was a pale pink shirt in crisp cotton, featuring print blocking in candied stripes and solids, styled with the most delicious full skirt in crisp baby blue with charcoal and terracotta stripes, cinched at the waist with neat drawstrings in Lee’s signature flair for deconstructed tailoring.

By Lucie Dhog. Images shot for us by Kerry Curl.