Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase – The Next Best - SS16, London Fashion Week, Freemasons Hall
Graduate showcases are a welcome opportunity for London Fashion Week to take a break from celebrating known designers and the who’s who of the sartorial landscape. Fashion Scout is best at revelling in fashion’s future, and this season they gave us an edit of the most talented and the most promising new darlings of fashion. Here’s our pick of the most experimental up-and-commers.
Chou Yun Ting
This young Taiwanese designer is a graduate of Shih Chien University and winner of the Graduate Fashion Week International Catwalk Competition. Ting’s bold concoctions consisted of gender-bending Oriental silhouettes and cocooning shapes that were both comforting and chaotic. Pastels and pop art prints (on men) were aggressively playful on sharp layering and militaristic ensembles. A pale pink and grey look gave the impression of a metrosexual ninja, with a hint of video game protagonist. The digital element of the collection could also be seen on high-necked, cut-away coats textured with bright stripes in primary colours and pastels, against more serious grey suiting. Ting’s work is fun and current with a deeper message on culture, sexuality and stereotypes hidden (not so subtly) in between the knit striped shorts, restraining coats and satin ties.
(Images courtesy of Cargocollective.com)
Williams’ conceptual collection steals the thunder from the finished garment by putting more importance on the process. Pieces were crafted on the models rather than cut and sewn from patterns, with a silicone blend strategically dripped onto their bodies in the same way a sculptor would add to a piece of art. Any material that fell to the floor was peeled up and added to the final items so that there was no waste and so ‘no mistakes’. The result is a collection of wearable sculpture that hangs from the body in sensual drippings and ragged edges. Colour played a big part, slithering spontaneously down silicone gowns, leggings and gloves in bright streaks of red, purple and teal. The death-defying wedges were not spared either, splattered in paint and made to look like an extension of the melting dresses.
This Manchester School of Art alumnus went all out for form, showing strong silhouettes on pillowy outerwear and slim legs. Inspired by residential estate rioters, astronauts and the protective clothing needed for both, Wallace indulges in off-kilter social commentary with sporty shapes, a greyscale palette and inflated ski jackets. Texture was introduced with a silver metallic jacket, a geometric digital print and spiky appliqué. Generous quilting, cocoon shapes, leggings and balaclavas created a futuristic mix of fitted and fanciful. Elongated lines, exaggerated sleeves, superfluous ties and over the top puffiness added an air of haute fashion to Wallace’s slick, streetwear aesthetic.
All images Fashion Scout of The Glass Pineapple unless otherwise indicated.