Apu Jan SS18 London Fashion Week
Florals have always been a stalwart theme in spring summer collections, but Apu Jan opted for an intriguing interpretation this season with thoughts on short-lived flowers and their decline (“Before Last Petal Falls”) at Fashion Scout SS18.
The colours and textures in this 33-piece collection showed the stages of falling petals at their most dynamic and explosive - and at their most fleeting - referencing the literary works of O Henry and Edgar Allen Poe. The patterns depict the stages of nature, with blossom petals, fallen petals, leaves, trees, and spring snow shown in the textures, print, and detailing in each runway piece.
Apu Jan used techniques of silk knitting and print repetition in the designs, on a juxtaposition of layers and textures of jacquard, floaty ethereal chiffon, and fine gauge knits for spring. The designer took inspiration from eastern style elements in a nod to the orient with mandarin collars and Qing dynasty horse hoof sleeves. The palette was primarily monochrome in shimmering tones of grey, black, and white, with colour introduced gently in pale shades of blue and pink.
Silhouettes were spare with soft touches to traditional tailoring and grown up ruffles and frills. Fabrics traditionally associated with suiting evolved the theme with tailored tonal petals in stark angular shapes layered in taupe pinstripe, accents of blush pink jacquard, and ankle-grazing layer upon layer of minimalist ruffles on a stand-out white dress.