Edeline Lee SS18 London Fashion Week
Canadian born designer Edeline Lee’s SS18 presentation at the BFC show space (“I feel like myself…and I like it") referenced the life of artist Georgia O’Keefe, with 3D botanical accents and a colour palette of azure blue, blush, earthy shades of clay and khaki, black, and white. The pieces not only paid homage to the artist’s work, but also the life she had made in New Mexico. Lee used unique textile twisting and knotting techniques to create a very O’Keefe inspired aesthetic, with ruffled accents and intricately hand-embellished details.
The designer’s signature “bubble” jacquard appeared in refined and tailored pieces alongside sheer white voile and suiting in unexpected shades, with a fresh pop of colour in the form of buttons, buckles and trim in sky blue.
The Edeline Lee aesthetic is clean-cut with a twist. Literally with a twist. The juxtaposition of minimalist tailoring with statement floral embellishments and knotted appliqués gave a whole new dimension to the flawlessly tailored pieces, in one of the most cohesive collections of the season.
Chain-stitched sentences from O’Keefe’s love letters added an edge to smocked voile dresses and shirts. Exaggerated elements were introduced in everything from sculptural cascading ruffles that adorned a soft grey marl sweatshirt to a simple column dress in sand, twisted at the waist and knotted at the shoulder. The exaggeration also appeared as a play on ladylike shirtdresses and blouses with oversized bows at the epaulets, the sleeves, or at the waist of a pencil skirt.
A pared back white slip dress was knotted at the hem, a clay-hued column dress cinched at the waist. Even a pair of elegant evening trousers came tied at the ankle to give an entirely new silhouette.
Lee has long had an admiration for strong women, and feminine courage and independent spirit provided the driving force behind this collection. Lee is intrigued by the coexistence of fragility and strength in the iconic O’Keefe. Not only has she mastered the art of tailoring but her statement pieces in this latest collection are beautifully executed and impeccably proportioned too.