Hellavagirl SS18 London Fashion Week
Some collections are minimalist, pared back, and unembellished. Some favour neutrals. Hellavagirl’s “Human Meat Freaks” was not either of those. A collaboration with Analogue Acrobatics, the SS18 show at Fashion Scout was visually stunning, a theatrical masterpiece with a Brothers Grimm aesthetic that twisted, turned, and skillfully sculpted proportions to blur the lines between fashion and art. It was inspired by our love for flesh, fetish, and genderless decadence and featured creatures of the night, and all the things that go on behind closed doors.
“Human Meat Freaks” was an elaborate and extravagant celebration of gender fluidity and the human interpretation of sexuality. It opened with a male acrobat led by a Mistress in lingerie-inspired rope bondage, followed by another cartwheeling down the catwalk to the soundtrack of “Little Green Bag” from Reservoir Dogs – an invitation to the audience to join them down the rabbit hole.
Extravagantly styled models of all genders strutted down the runway to Nirvana and Marilyn Manson in signature jumpsuits cut close to the body and slashed daringly low in the back. There were capes with the giant sculptural wings of fallen angels, and glorious voluminous swathes of material in everything from statuesque shoulders to show stopping gowns of satin and taffeta.
Hellavagirl’s Helen Woollams plays with proportions and volume to transform the human shape into something almost unrecognisable, and yet disconcertingly familiar. Fringing was long and free flowing, with a stunning floor length cape, which swept at the model’s feet like a curtain a stand out piece of the collection.
Hair was braided, teased and coiffed into elaborate mohawks and makeup reminiscent of archetypal Grace Jones. The palette was dark and bright, with textural treatments of black in pleated leather and sculpted satin, acid-bright sequins, and yards and yards of blood-red lamé. Boots towered in perilously tall platforms adorned with straps, buckles and ribbons.