LFW: Joanna Berling, RU, Orange Culture, Krasimira Stoyneva - Fashion Scout Ones to Watch AW17
There must be a special kind of rush for a designer when someone says “Lady Gaga wants one of your pieces” – if you’ve ever wondered what that must feel like then ask Joanna Berling, whose innovative designs have graced the backs of Gaga and more. Her AW17 collection – shown as part of the Fashion Scout AW17 Ones to Watch showcase – was a fine balance of beauty and crass. Delicate, full skirted dresses with sweetheart necklines contrasted with dark tailoring and sheers; dappled hooded jackets and deep blue and black tie dye prints were set against gauzy layers of pink and trailing crochet. Some looks were barely worn, the expanse of skin an extra texture, almost part of the look itself.
All Ones to Watch images shot for us by Maps Studios.
Fur isn’t something we like to see on the catwalks, thanks, and so designers who innovate new ways of introducing texture without cruelty are right up our street. Step forward Krasimira Stoyneva whose ultra modern, colourful creations are embellished with synthetic hair. If this doesn’t sound particularly appealing then you only have to look at the designer’s Ones to Watch AW17 collection to be proven wrong – the line was fresh, creative and full of movement. Behaving like a stiffer evolution of fringing, the hair element added depth and texture to skirts and statement jackets, introducing 3D layers of colour, star motifs and silhouette definition. The ultra bright colour choices gave the looks even more life and the overall impact made for one of the stand out collections of Day 1 for us. An ankle length skirt in white, hot pink, red, grey and black layers was particularly covetable.
Orange Culture men are “self-aware, expressive, explorative, art-loving nomads,” exactly what the wider world needs more of. The sheer explosions of colour from this brand marks it out as one of the boldest around. For AW17 this ranged from olive and brown, through to peppermint green and bright orange, sometimes in block colour, sometimes running through abstract safari style prints. No piece from the collection was predictable, each had an addition or dimension added, from cut outs, to layering and ruffles. We loved the collar detail, the cheekbone embellishment and the dapper styles, in vibrant velvets, that closed the collection.
RU studied MA Material Futures at Central Saint Martins so the relationship between art, fashion and architecture is strong in this brand. Fashion isn’t just there to cover skin and bone but a three dimensional statement of life and art. AW17 reflected this with urban colours, from shades of granite, to concrete and sand. Hoodies and co-ords explored orange lined black and various shades of indigo denim, and asymmetric lines and gathers played with distortions of volume and shape. The details were especially notable – red curves and slashes at random intervals, as well as little metallic wrecking balls adorning tie ends.