John Herrera SS18 London Fashion Week
In his second season at London’s Fashion Scout, John Herrera again showed his talent for fabric manipulation in another collaboration with Epson. A dye sublimation technique was used to print the textiles for this collection, and as only very precise volumes of fabric are utilised in garment construction this minimises wastage, leading the way for increased sustainability in the fashion industry.
We saw his signature powerful proportions in feminine dresses and separates married with references to cartography and influences from 16th century historical fashion. The “Armada” collection was inspired by maps discovered from 1529 when Spanish explorers accidentally discovered the Philippine Islands en route to the spice islands of the Moluccas, which Herrera rendered onto textiles of various weights and opacities; it was this combination of sheer and stiff materials with soft chiffons that created the striking silhouettes in this latest collection.
Both colour palette and style were influenced by Spanish colonial heritage, with design elements from the 16th century. Ghostly veiled models with towering hairdos swept down the catwalk in corsetry-inspired separates cut to emphasise and exaggerate the female form.
Cartographical sepias and browns were punctuated by deep, rich scarlet in sweeping capes, cloaks, and coats with the shape of the ruff popular in western Europe in the mid-1500s echoed in collars and neckpieces and also in beautifully textured 3D textile treatments. We especially loved his hip skimming capes with glorious movement, worn with just a pair of thigh-high boots and an immense amount of attitude.