Birmingham graduate Rhys Ellis was on our list of emerging designers to watch for SS18 thanks to his epic graduate collection, which showed a real talent for skilful recreation. So, it was with real interest that we went to his show on the last day of London Fashion Week to witness the ‘Glory of the Snow’ presentation with knitwear pieces in collaboration with Oliver Thomas Lipp.
The presentation was staged minimally in a white, industrial chic surrounds with models posed amongst textural piles of gravel. There was nothing to detract from the sculptural presence and intricate perfection of the pieces which, in our opinion, were some of the boldest and most innovative designs we saw all week.
The level of detail in the pieces was intense – and yet the overall effect was simple, clean, calming even. Robust textures presented no barrier to creating smooth lines and soft curves.
There was a sense of armour even in the softer pieces and a clever textural reversal too – knits bore resemblance to chainmail while the 3D dresses constructed from coffee pods looked totally pliable.
The line explored the boundaries of the dress, from structured skirts, to clean cut halternecks, a simple minidress and pieces with intricate movement derived from multiple strips of texture.
It was an incredibly tactile collection with a level of detail that demonstrated real vision and skill from a designer who isn’t just focused on the micro world of fashion but conveying views about the wider way we live too. We can’t wait to see which way this creative brain goes next.
Words by The Glass Pineapple. Images shot for us by Luis Calow.