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Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

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Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Tulle has been something of a theme this season and Xiao Li was not only one of the first to show it but also to fuse it with that powder lipstick red that everyone is drooling over right now. We fell more than a little in love with the SS18 collection from this talented designer, its modest silhouettes crafted in racy sheers; the oversize details, from bows to layers and huge Alice in Wonderland sleeves. It felt fresh, clean cut and uncompromising.

 Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Bubblegum pink and baby blue, crisp whites and that rogue red were delivered in big blocks. There was something incredibly refreshing for the brain not to have to deal with a mash up of shades or intricate prints, just chunky swathes of stimulating colour.

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

That’s not to say that there wasn’t print detail – the ‘I am not a robot’ letters, on first glance randomly strewn, looked cutely chaotic and quietly rebellious. Their presence indicated the undertone to the collection – a frustration at the pressure the speed of fashion places on the modern designer. “I am not a robot working on a conveyor belt” is the message it’s trying to get across on the pieces themselves, as well as the delicate screens that sat in the centre of the room. It's a message increasingly getting steamrollered by commercialism - but if there's a collection bold enough to make people stop and listen, it's this one.

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

Xiao Li SS18 London Fashion Week

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