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Louise Assomo For The Glass Pineapple

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Louise Assomo SS16 red coat

Louise Assomo SS16 

Balance is a key component in fashion design. Even those who crave the most outrageous style have a tipping point where ‘outré’ becomes ‘oh no no no no.’ Of course getting that balance wrong is as much an important part of the process as getting it right. Without the experimenters who sometimes produce shoes even models can’t walk in or a dress that is too conceptual to sit down in, fashion would be so very dull. But every now and again there is a designer who seems to have that balance inbuilt – just the right teeter totter of drama and simplicity, eccentricity and ease. When we first came across Cameroon-born Belgian designer Louise Assomo, her designs revealed this natural equilibrium – playful but elegant, experimental but not impossible. Louise seems to have an innate appreciation for the desire that modern fashion make us stand out, without sticking out.

After graduating with a masters in fashion from Francisco Ferrer Academy of Arts in Brussels in 2001, Assomo entered a young designer’s competition and immediately started attracting press attention for her wearably eccentric style. Commercially, a shoe collection came first, designed for Lebanese brand Minatomei, followed by industry recognition as an emerging footwear talent. She has since stepped into RTW too, developing an aesthetic that embraces colour, curves and structure, and proving herself to be something of a texture queen. We are particularly in love with the Saran Bomber Jackets – all of them.

 

Louise Assomo SS16 bomber jacket

Louise Assomo

For fans of colour, print and a designer who can dress a woman’s body without being hampered by tradition, Louise Assomo is a great new find. Which is why we wanted to learn more about her.

Louise Assomo SS16

Louise Assomo SS16 maxi dress

Louise Assomo SS16

On getting into fashion…

I don’t remember wanting to get into fashion when I was I little girl, I was dreaming about being a dancer!

On Minatomei…

I met the 2 owners of Minatomei in Paris in the MIDEC, where I was invited by the fair as one of the young designers, and they just fell in love with my accessories. From there we started the collaboration, which was my first job and a very good experience.

On designing shoes…

I think shoes say a lot about attitude. Comfort is more important today than it used to be and it’s not that easy to find a balance between comfort and glamour – that’s what I am trying to do with the brand. I want women to play with their look and to feel comfortable in their shoes, which is why most of our shoes have comfortable heels. I only use the finest materials and all our shoes are made in Italy by those who also work for big names in the industry.

On moving into RTW…

My passion for design has always been the total silhouette. When I am thinking about the look I always think about the attitude of the woman in the total look. That’s why we have clothes and accessories in the collection. I started as accessories designer but I like to play with different fabrics and texture.

Louise Assomo SS16

Louise Assomo SS16 pink midi dress

Louise Assomo SS16

On inspirations…

My inspirations are very diverse, I was born in Cameroon and I live in Belgium so Louise Assomo is a reflection of that. I love the men’s vestiaire, which I think is very creative as it combines comfort, quality and elegance. Am also a big fan of traditional clothes of cultures all around the world I love the way women used to take care of themselves in the 50’s 60’s too. Everything can inspire me: a song an old movie, people in the street ...

On creating… 

I always start from an image or an atmosphere that inspires me and then I work on the silhouettes. Finally, I select the fabrics and all the accessories that will express the story that I want to tell.

On the Louise Assomo muse…

My muse is a very free woman, she appropriates the universes she has experienced or dreamed of. She wants to be here and there in her very own way. Her way to mix colors, patterns and shapes together is unique, underlining a contemporary sense of eclecticism.

Louise Assomo yellow jumpsuit

Louise Assomo AW16

On her AW16 collection.

“Pursuing her exploration of an eclectic wardrobe, Louise Assomo reworks her personal favorites to striking effect, emphasizing print, texture and streamlined shapes. Her clothes are playful and subjective, referencing the freedom of rare and exotic birds, as well as maverick women who challenged rules and conventions, such as Sade, Grace Jones or Janis Joplin. Uncontrived glamour is key this season, apparent in the effortless charm of an oversize jumpsuit or the casual nonchalance of a sleeveless wool trench,

Louise Assomo's love of drama is apparent in her full-length, buttoned-up tunics with playful slits, a nod to the late 70s and cheeky Halstonettes. Expressing her passion for diversity, as well as cultural discovery, the tunic travels lights and adapts to any environment, becoming a statement piece.

Strong and expressive, Louise Assomo's color palette recalls the joyful shades of Indian villages. Saffron, terracotta and pink are fresh and upbeat, while petroleum blue and solid gray anchor the tailored styles, mixed with gold and silver accents.”

Louise Assomo AW16 Coat

Louise Assomo AW16

Louise Assomo AW16 jumpsuit

Louise Assomo

On tailoring…

Tailoring for me is the only way to make high fashion. It’s important to understand the construction of the clothes and to know more about the fabrics, as well as all the steps of the creating process, from the start to the shop.

On people she admires…

I am a big fan Alaia, Albert Elbaz , Dries Van Noten because I think they have they one style and they stay true to themselves

On the most important thing fashion has to offer the modern world…

DIVERSITY

On what’s next…

Love , Health and Happiness!

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