Tbilisi Fashion Week AW16 - shows
New York resident Lako Bukia returned to Tbilisi for AW16 fashion week this season after showing at London Fashion Week for the past four years, as well as Paris, Berlin and Kiev. The collection, ‘Touch’ was inspired by a recent trip to Istanbul and the three dimensional effects of tiles Lako spotted on the metro there. Coloured leather coats and digitally printed jumpsuits appeared alongside eye catching geometric embroidered belts and a red leather culottes suit, which was the stand out look for us.
Nino Chubinishvili’s AW16 ‘Ingredients’ collection continued the designer’s mission to bridge the gap between art and fashion. The diverse designs were presented by wandering models who sat, contemplated, stood and moved on at a random pace, displaying halterneck jumpsuits, eclectic tailoring and a succession of combination hats. We loved the Versace-esque faces, which appeared on everything from boots to belts, hats to necklaces.
Dalood founder and creative director Maka Kvitsiani believes that “simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” and the AW16 collection from this former cult Moscow boutique drew on simple, spirited design underpinned by the brand’s signature impeccable needlework. Silhouettes screamed Eighties quirk and the flirty dresses, broad shoulder suits and exceptional tailoring gave the collection real personality. We loved the oversize coats, from the leathers to the grey floor-sweeper.
Gwen Salakaia launched her eponymous brand in 2015 after a stint at Parsons School of Design in Paris and internships with Louis Vuitton and Chanel PR. As you might expect with such a pedigree the label aesthetic is sophisticated and classic – contemporary details are constant but the elegant vein running through all of the designs is never interrupted. The AW16 ‘Under Armor’ line drew inspiration from the rich colour palette of 17th century Dutch paintings, applying shades of green, red, navy and dark gold to tailored skirts, dramatic dresses and subtle sheers.
Inspired by the painter Monet, knitwear label LALO took the soft shades of a water garden and the cool mystery of the Water Lily Pond or the Contarini Palace to define the ‘Mysterious Garden’ collection. Hand woven in Georgia, the range of knitwear roved across textures, from tweeds and velvet to net and ostrich feathers, creating tunics, pencil skirts and off the shoulder looks.
Salome Gviniashvili’s ‘Peaceful Chaos’ AW16 collection drew inspiration from the work of Andreas H Bitesnich, an Austrian photographer and musician who specialises in nudes. Salome, a former model and designer, is an alumni of London’s Central Saint Martins and started her own brand in 2015. Peaceful Chaos gave us loose lines and texture rich styles in largely monochrome shades shot through with the occasional dose of bold citrus yellow or a flash of skin through sheer.
Mariam Gvasalia built her AW16 collection from the ground up, starting with footwear and heading northward from there. Her detail oriented, colourful designs produced a series of bold contrasts – grey tailoring against blood orange sheers, linear geometric prints applied to louche, slouchy silhouettes. The printed bomber jackets were the stand out pieces for us and the yellow under eye shadow was the beauty look of the week.
Mach & Mach
Youthful and edgy, Mach & Mach produced an AW16 collection with some serious energy and plenty of bold personality. The Edge was an eclectic line that featured everything from flowing tailoring to giant-sequin-edged cut outs, as well as plenty of cropped pants. Fringing was used liberally and to dramatic effect. Once again, the footwear almost ran off with the show, particularly the furry ankle cuffs and shimmering lace ups.
Named ‘Chaotic Perfection,’ the AW16 collection from the Atelier 27 team, Keti Lakerbaia, Ani Katamadze and Designer Khatuna Gegidze, drew inspiration from the self confidence and courage of the free woman. Individual and unique, the designs explored contrasts of rough and smooth, engaging fabrics from tulle to silk to form the creations. A simple colour range of black and white, shades of red and burgundy and terracotta brought a dramatic simplicity to the line.
Taking inspiration from the blending of futurism and minimalism, Tamta Shindelishvili’s AW16 line explored different texture combinations and unconventional lines to create looks that were versatile hybrids of catwalks gone by. Black, white and grey dominated the colour palette, giving way to the drama of a shocking pink dress or a metallic trench. Consistency, coverage and an icy cool define the Chaos collection.
Simple, elegant lines and surprising details brought the personality to the AW16 line from Nini Chelidze, a graduate of the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts. Textures ranged from smooth silks to simple knits and even silicon, which was used to produce unique detail. Particularly notable for their innovation were the wooden caps, which the designer produced especially for the quirky collection.
Closing Tbilisi Fashion Week with one of the most extensive collections of the event, former doctor George Shaghashvili’s 'Earth is a Polka Dot' line was directly inspired by his immersion in Japanese culture during a trip to the Far East. Blending traditional Japanese silhouettes, from the obi to the kimono, with hyper modern technological urban culture, the range brought these classic, feminine lines bang up to date with cropped lengths, sheer fabrics and variations on the polka dot. Shaghashvili showed both men’s and womenswear on his AW16 catwalk, following in the illustrious mixed-gender footsteps of the likes of Saint Laurent, Burberry, Givenchy and Gucci – a nod to the future of fashion? Perhaps.
Thanks to Enterprise Georgia and the awesome Pop PR for taking us there.