Resort, Pre, Cruise - What Is it All About?
Fendi Resort SS17
You may have noticed that we are currently in the grip of yet another round of fashion shows. A/W has ended, S/S has not yet begun so What The Lagerfeld is the fashion world doing offering up yet another season? Well, this here is the Resort season, the ‘Pre-collections’ or Cruise, and although it may seem like just another attention seeking exercise aimed at editors and big buyers it’s actually been around for a while and has a lot to offer the rest of us mere mortals too.
The Jet Set
Historically, these interseasonal lines were developed for a jet set who needed outfits for Caribbean Cruises and holidays to Resorts in the Indian Ocean in the months before the spring/summer collections were yet on the rack. However, Resort fashion has since grown into something much more significant and in 2016 everyone is doing it.
Novis Resort SS17
Sachin & Babi Resort SS17
Resort collections are renowned for giving designers an opportunity to indulge their creativity and go in a more expressive or unexpected direction. You might notice that some of the detail in the full collection has been experimented with in the Resort line, reinterpreting the vision into something totally different or trying a silhouette, texture or fabric that wouldn’t fit with the main collection. At Alexis Mabille, for example, the innovative use of lace that appeared in the main SS16 line was a much bigger theme in the Resort collection.
Alexis Mabille SS16
Alexis Mabille Resort SS16
Where Resort really is something worth investigating for those who recognise that there is often rather a gulf between what you could wear on the Tube vs. what comes down the catwalk, is that Resort is almost always a more accessible version of a label’s look. You can sit down in Resort wear, eat spaghetti, or wear in daylight without an indecency charge whereas the main collection may require kinder light or fewer ribs. Take Alexander McQueen, for example – the SS16 Resort combination of ruffles and leather jacket is considerably more wearable than the SS16 main collection catwalk look.
Alexander McQueen SS16
Alexander McQueen Resort SS16
Resort collections pretty much encapsulate that (awful, sorry) term ‘transseasonal.’ While fashion has become less rigid about restricting bare skin to summer and dark shades to winter, it’s the Resort styles that truly offer the opportunity to escape catching a chill in September or sweating your way through May. Think fine knits, layering pieces, lightweight jackets and no restrictions on colours, textures or embellishment.
Chanel Resort SS17
Resort fashion can also be used to interpret what a designer may do next season, to spot incoming trends and pick up on where certain obsessions lie. As Resort comes in both ‘pre-spring/summer’ and ‘pre-fall’ (autumn) virtually every month is now covered.
Louis Vuitton Resort SS17
Louis Vuitton Resort SS17
Of course you could argue that perhaps we already have enough fashion with just the two main seasons; that maybe the world doesn’t need more stuff and designers are under enough pressure already (Karl Lagerfeld, for example now has to do 4 collections per year for his own label, plus the demands of Chanel, Fendi, couture etc). However, the rise in popularity of the Resort lines this year would indicate there will be no slimming down of schedules. Unless, of course, what we are moving to is the rise of entirely seasonless fashion where collections are available as soon as the final model has walked, something that could well slow down the accelerating cycle of what is a wonderful but often wasteful industry. We will have to wait and see.
Akris Resort SS17
Gucci Resort SS17
All images Vogue