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LFW AW14 - Yulia Kondranina, Little Shilpa, Temperley London

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Yulia Kondranina

Images courtesy of Vogue

Former One to Watch and Merit Award winner Yulia Kondranina showcased a beautifully sculpted collection for AW14. It was a journey of contradictions; touchably soft wool and ultra fluid silhouettes starkly contrasted against rough fringed edging, bold zigzag prints and tough patent strips. Notably less feminine than Kondranina's previous collection, this season drew inspiration from 90s grunge and primarily focused on wool and flexible shapes. Evoking the spirit of winter, and in keeping with the age of the understatement, the colour palette was overwhelmed with hues of black, navy and white, although vivid splashes of pink, cobalt, red and teal appeared towards the end of the show. This collection also debuted quirky sculptural details, such as elegant fabric twists, revealing thigh high slits and cold shoulder cutouts that created interesting halter-esque shapes. The most striking detail was undoubtedly what appeared to be giant eyelets and laces on the front of plain black dresses, evoking a rebellious teenage streak to an otherwise all grown-up collection. 

Little Shilpa

Images courtesy of Phoenix Mag

Little Shilpa's 'Vespar Bloom' collection serves as a testament to this designer's versatility; her dark and fantastical AW14 collection marking a stark contrast to her brightly coloured futuristic SS14 show. Examining the implications of life in darkness, haunting projections were cast onto the walls of monsters; zombies and vampires strengthening Shilpa's evocatively sinister collection. This designer used noir flowers, inky feathers, crosses and rosary beads to conjure a sense of sobriety, saying "the darkness has another life, some flowers can only grow at night." The wonderful headpieces of the collection wouldn't have been out of place on the head of a fairytale Wicked Queen. The Vesper Bloom collection was shrouded in mystery; flowing black lace, jet beading and sequins creating a sense of Gothic romanticism that we couldn't look away from. Shilpa's awe-inspiring ability to transform her signature style from season to season has yet again left us eager to see what's next... 

Temperley London

Images courtesy of Vogue

Temperley presented a dazzling collection, conceived from the luxurious beauty of Como, Italy. Byzantine mosaics, ornate cathedrals and flowing religious robes provided the sumptuous inspiration for the exquisite jacquard prints that dominated the show. This season saw the designer step away from her traditional sea of ball gowns into contemporary daywear, although a number of ornate silk floor length dresses anchored the collection, with exquisite embroidery, lavish patterns, thigh high splits and appliquéd sheer organza. Day wear focused on layered separates; printed wool jumpers, smart sheer blouses, tailored cigarette trousers and beautifully patterned tulip skirts, worn over thigh high suede boots in shades of slate grey and striking cobalt. The traditional feminine silhouette was fully embraced, many of the pieces belted to emphasise the waist, complete with billowing sleeves and soft fluid lines. The sophisticated colour palette predominantly featured greys, blues, black and nude, interspersed with culture referencing splashes of red, lilac and pink. Next season we'll be mimicking Temperley's envy inducing European sophisticate, who took us on a journey from a weekend break in Italy to the red carpet in one swift sartorial swoop. 

 

Show reports by Nikki McMullen

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