ONES TO WATCH Autumn/Winter 2015 - J Moon, Minju Kim, Angel, Autonomous
On the J moon catwalk the colour palette was primary and muted, reds and blues set off against mustard, the whitest white, or the palest of nudes. Models had vintage style hair teased into 60s ponytails with heavy eye makeup and pale, pale lips. Accessories were matchy or contrasting and there was an air of preppiness and models in team colours. Knitted sweaters were adorned with colored fur panels and there were heavy colour blocked knits featuring off centre geometric patterns. The neck was a much-loved zone, cosied up in turtlenecks or framed by a cowl.
With Minju Kim we saw an entirely different rainbow of shades, it was the march of the winter pastels such as baby pink, light blue and corals. Lighter colours were also drawn into darker hues, paired with reds, camels and black and white on skirts and bralets and even with matching masks. The sky blue shade was translated onto a Disney-esque dress, soft satin with a cut out detail and gathered at the waist, as well as a contrasting 50s style peacoat accented with yellow. The collection pattern – a cartoonish blue, white and red print – we loved. Glance quickly at it and you might be convinced it was Mickey Mouse. This idea of the childlike and nostalgic felt like a common theme with prints, over the knee socks, dress up style clothing, schoolgirl like blazers.
The Angel collection opted for a darker take on storytelling, moving into the realms of earthy folklore emphasised by the choice of music: The Heroic Weather - Conditions of the Universe by Alexandre Desplat. Colors were bold for this collection – unapologetic yellows and reds, stark black and white, combined with heritage style tweeds, checks and stripes, as well as the deep browns of nature. Male and female models were adorned with headpieces that grew more ethereal as the show went on. Tailored coats were the defining feature of the collection for us, in oversize and colour block, accented with neons or worn over shirts in bright shades of orange and causally undone ties.
Closing the Ones to Watch catwalk was ethical designer Kim Stevenson's Autonomous label, who sent a casual, folky-edged, rough hewn collection down the catwalk, complete with pared back make-up and elegantly ripped tights. Reds, grays and blues set the foundations for looks that were hand woven and three dimensional, whether with florals, patchworks or tassels. We loved the tonal panels on the coats, as well as the towering hats and the flatforms that marched down the catwalk in everything from denims to metallics.