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London Collections: Men Report

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(Gieves & Hawkes © Style.com)

Now in its seventh year, London Collections: Men continues to delight with an ever growing mix of everything from traditional gentlemen’s tailoring to riotous streetwear, gender-bending deconstructivism and the kind of cultivated eccentricity that we Brits do so well. Basically, a microcosm of modern British style.

This year’s showing had it all, from exceptional suiting at Gieves & Hawkes, Tom Ford and Burberry to relaxed and quirky modern tailoring at Agi & Sam, Casley-Hayford and J.W. Anderson, tongue in cheek streetwear at Katie Eary and Astrid Andersen and carefully executed convention-shattering at Craig Green, Alex Mullins, Rory Parnell-Mooney at MAN and Christopher Shannon.

Rather than categorise by trend, we broke this year’s shows down by style archetype: “classic gent”, “new gent” and “wouldn’t be caught dead using the word gent”.

Classic gent

 

(L-R: Tom Ford, Burberry Prorsum, Margaret Howell © Style.com)

Defining characteristics: a perfectly folded pocket square; trousers ironed with a disconcertingly crisp crease down the front; an overall look that hasn’t changed much since women got the vote; shows his wild side every now and then with a purple smoking jacket or bright Liberty print shirt.

See: trenches and jewel toned suiting at Burberry Prorsum; classic 50s cuts at Margaret Howell; basically anything from Tom Ford - especially that oil slick smoking jacket.

 

New gent

 

(L-R: Agi & Sam, J.W. Anderson, Casley-Hayford © Style.com)

Defining characteristics: more experimental than the classic gent but still unwilling to stray too far from traditional menswear canon; a real stickler for cut and proportion but will take risks with colour, texture, fabric and details; owns sport and streetwear pieces; has a handful of really loud things that make their annual appearance during festival season.

See: sporty tailoring at Agi & Sam, Casely-Hayford, J.W. Anderson, E Tautz, some of the more pared-back items at Christopher Shannon and Craig Green.

 

Wouldn’t be caught dead saying the word “gent”

 

(L-R: Christopher Shannon, Craig Green, Rory Parnell-Mooney © Style.com)

Defining characteristics: will wear a skirt; gives zero fucks.

See: Astrid Andersen, Craig Green, Alex Mullins, Katie Eary, Rory Parnell-Mooney at MAN, Christopher Shannon.

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