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London Pre-collections Roundup

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Is it just us, or is the fashion calendar getting weirder and more confusing every year? Case in point: what’s with all the pre-collections? What does “pre-collection” even mean? Isn’t that just a fancy new name for “resort”? Why is this happening?

While we certainly cannot answer most, if not all, of the above questions, pre-collections are now undoubtedly a thing: with established and emerging names from Burberry, Roland Mouret and Peter Pilotto to Marques’Almeida, PAPER London and Zoe Jordan on the recent London roster, it looks as though the pre-collection is here to stay. We trawled through the roster to bring you our highlights from three rising stars of this delightful and baffling season.

Marques’Almeida

(images © Marques’Almeida via Style.com)

This first pre-collection by the recent LVMH Prize winning duo makes us really, really happy. All the tropes we’ve come to cherish from Marques’Almeida are there: frayed denim, diaphanous layered dresses, tortured t-shirts, a rich colour palette – augmented by relaxed cargo jackets, swimwear and a covetable range of ostrich-feathered bags. We love the family photo vibe, eschewing the standard issue willowy model and studio and shooting their collection on muse (and Marta Marques’ little sister) Sofia out in Brazil.

PAPER London

(behind the scenes images © PAPER London via Facebook)

There was lots to love at PAPER London too: familiar structured silhouettes including their iconic calf length culottes and drop hem column dress were represented here in sheer and lightweight shimmery fabrics with a relaxed, summery feel. Also notable: laid-back knits and matchy-matchy oversized coats, tops and skirts. 

Peter Pilotto

A collaboration between Peter Pilotto and Ancient Greek Sandals yielded a beautiful collection with Aegean-esque motifs and a polished sun-drenched vibe. There were the same streamlined silhouettes, rich embellishment and overall graphic complexity that you’d expect from Pilotto but with a more informal feel and without a digital print in sight.

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