New York Fashion Week Round Up 2
So, the craziness that surrounds New York Fashion week is drawing to a close and the whole shebang is about to be put to bed until next year (whilst everyone who’s anyone jumps on a plane to London). Since the last update we’ve seen Lil’ Kim’s appearance at Opening Ceremony’s 10th anniversary party and been considerably distracted by Blake Lively’s secret wedding (the dress was custom made Marchesa btw), as well as being bewitched by collections featuring everything from leather petals to perforated heels.
From feathers to latex, leather, to chiffon and georgette, the space helmets of Falguni & Shane, to the utterly marvellous creativity of Thom Browne, if NYFW has proved one thing in these tough economic times, it’s that Elsa Schiaparelli knew what she was talking about when she said, “In difficult times fashion is always outrageous.” To bring the glorious New York Fashion Week 2012 to a close, here is a round up of some of our favourites from the past few days.
(Thom Browne SS13 pic from http://www.thefader.com)
We love Thom Browne at Glass Pineapple, as there are few other designers who really push the boundaries of fashion like he does. His latest collection presented at the New York Public Library on Monday was inspired by German painter, choreographer and sculptor Oskar Schlemmer and presented in front of fairground mirrors on dizzying Willy Wonka (the Tim Burton version) style pinwheels. This was a twisted ‘preppy’ collection of dress skeletons, seahorse and whale motifs, superbly structured pieces, and a palette of monochrome and gray with liberal use of Technicolor, all presented on models in ballet shoes and striped tights.
(Carlos Miele SS13 pic from http://www.demotix.com)
Over at Carlos Miele, there was no less drama, as the show opened with the unbeatable combination of a silhouetted model, vast swathes of chiffon and a wind machine. The show was wild, heavy on the animal print with huge punches of colour – think lime, turquoise and chartreuse yellow - and bold red lips. Miele said he was ‘inspired by the strength of the large cats’ during a trip to the zoo for this collection, and there was more than a touch of an exotic to his show, although his creations were most definitely running wild and free. Maxis were plentiful, tassels and pleats were liberally used and opulence remained the designer’s watchword, from the bejeweled necklines to the beaded belts.
(Carolina Herrera SS13 pic from http://www.zimbio.com)
Designer of the Year Carolina Herrera proved her metal with an utterly charming girly, ethereal collection that created an instant lustful buzz. Tangerine and poppy reds were combined with nudes, greys and sheers in layers of tulle, georgette and chiffon, floaty silk shorts and ‘longuette’ hem skirts (just below mid calf). There were more collars, long fluid skirts and narrow tailored shoulders. Our favourite was this incredible maxi skirt and lemon yellow tee combination – for us, this is the way to wear SS13.
(Bibhu Mohapatra SS13 pic taken from http://www.zimbio.com)
We were eagerly awaiting the Bibhu Mohapatra show yesterday and with its futuristic glamour and sleek shapes, we certainly weren’t disappointed. Clean, modern tailoring, futuristic graphic prints and a romantic ruffle or two blended cleanly with peplums, embellished panels, drop hems, 1920s styling, defined shoulders and metallic fabrics.
(Falguni & Shane SS13 pic from http://www.mbfashionweek.com)
Falguni & Shane also went down the futuristic route with metallics and cut outs, sheer panels and creations that seemed more than a little Tron inspired! Among all the harsher fabrics there were softer touches of feathers and Spanish lace, as well as some utterly lust-after cats eye sunglasses.
(Oscar de La Renta SS13 from http://www.vogue.co.uk)
The Oscar de la Renta show was one of our highlights of NY Fashion Week this year as it had everything from jewel bright cocktail frocks to lovely ladylike silhouettes and full on ballgowns. There was plenty of mustard yellow, latex, layers, feather, appliqué, net and leather textures and creative print. All the models sported a streak of colour (very Daphne Guinness) in their chignons and there was a plethora of glamorous strapless gowns that will undoubtedly make it onto the red carpets of next summer.
(Holmes & Yang SS13 from http://www.vogue.co.uk)
Holmes & Yang’s presentation was one that we were waiting for with considerable interest seeing as it was the duo’s first time at NYFW. There were 14 impeccably presented looks, from sleek tuxedo jackets to black jumpsuits and leather bomber jackets, with softer pieces including a lavender cardigan in a chunky cable knit. Boxy jackets, scarlet shorts and pretty dresses completed a very composed and style conscious series of pieces.
To be honest we could continue chatting on this subject for another couple of hours, but with London Fashion Week to prep for tomorrow, we will just mention the sexy symmetrical creations at Ohne Titel, J Crew’s sherbet shades and tropical prints, the Osklen’s fish leather and vegetable dyes and the covetable, wearable chic of Rachel Zoe’s show.
And now onto London…