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Topknots, Tie Die and Pre-Surgical Print Tailoring - Day 2 at London Fashion Week

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Rag & Bone

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This was Brit boys Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s first ever London presentation. NYC based Rag & Bone, has well and truly made their mark on the US market who go nuts for their denim-centric craftsmanship and tailoring. While business acumen and bank balance might bring in the Benjamins Stateside - did they have what it took to convince the more discerning Brit crowd?

One standout piece that is bound to have fashion-folk breaking in the front door of their King’s Road store, is this craquelé effect leather neon green jacket. Also jostling for their piece of the limelight were vibrant blues and orange set against neutrals of white, sand and black. Yes eponymous, summer white again, this time head to toe get-up, accessorized with that straight from the Hamptons glow.  Paying homage to their predilection for well-done tailoring the looks were wearable no-brainers, which will reinforce the commercial success of the Nylon duo.


Ji Cheng

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Calm, precise and secure in its own identity was the stylized collection of softly feminine pieces at Ji Cheng yesterday.  Taking ancient Chinese tea ceremonies as inspiration, the collection was a soothing sight for sore eyes with not a whiff of dress up, despite the half coolie hat atop each model’s head.  Sheer fabrics, Chinese silk, dutiful draping, peplums and pockets adorned models whose topknots seemed to defy gravity, and uniformly scarlet accented eyes and lips delivered identity and style.



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Calling your show ‘How to affect robots and influence people’ is a brave move for a label like Antipodium, which is loved for its wearability, not its high fallutin’ concept dresses.  But if anyone was going to be able to make this one work it was Geoffrey Finch.  What came down the catwalk yesterday were waffle knits, full vintage ladylike skirts, flashes of olive, tangerine and metallics, and a startling pre-surgical print that came courtesy of a collaboration with the British Association of plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgeons.

Flesh tones and whites were big – from the bright, starched white of the chic medical orderly look, to nudes and beiges on tailored separates, and bomber jacket sleeves, which had the look of a post chemical feel face…  There were some severe looking leather pieces, another appearance by the overaccentuated sleeve, as well as lots of neat, pointy buttoned up collars. Whilst all this business of surgical prints might sound too conceptual, Finch also included several jackets with sleeves designed to be worn over the arms – a clever move as it made the rest of the pieces seem down right normal.  Our verdict on this is one is that it might seem crazy now, but without a doubt we’ll all be walking around next season looking like we’re prepped for a boob job.


House of Holland


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When Henry Holland started tweeting teaser images of chunky metallic sling backs yesterday before his show, garnering comments like ‘FUCK YEAH’ from Pixie Geldof, it was obvious that HH felt like this was a collection he particularly wanted to shout about.  And so it unfolded in a car park in Soho, with a FROW like a hipster’s wet dream, to a soundtrack of 90s new rave, a parade of prints, grungy glamour and a colour spectrum from aubergine cross hatched with yellow, to bright rainbow.

The tie die that most of us hid in the bottom drawer come the end of the ‘90s is made cool again (praise the lord) – updated on silk for 2012 – and shimmering brocade pieces, such as a one shouldered skater dress brought glamour to the NCP pay and display.  That dubious 90s essential, the beanie, was given a bejewelled facelift and there were drop waists, lace panels and edging, and a nod to Holland’s penchant for graphic knits.  The collection was totally wearable by average Josephine (with a little nerve), although we might leave the brocade hot pants to those who don’t have to get the bus.

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