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LFW Day 2: Thomas Tait, David Koma, Marques'Almeida, Palmer//Harding, Sister by Sibling AW 13

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Sister by Sibling

The glory of wool was in full effect yesterday at Fashion Week with Sister by Sibling demonstrating just how fashion forward knitwear can be. Spearheaded by Cara Delavigne in 3D teacosy knit with matching oversize beret (complete with pom pom) and fine fur collar and cuffs, it was the like a new horizon for knitwear had finally arrived.

A rose motif fine knit skirt suit, oversize chunky jumper dress, matchy midi and cardigan combinations, with crochet details were some of the more wearable creations, although certainly not the cosiest. We loved the fur snoods with matching giant cuffs, and the oversize hearthrug snug creations, as well as the mouthwatering palette of ice cream colours broken up by the odd coral or scarlet.

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We included Palmer//Harding in our Ones to Watch for London Fashion Week this year and their innovative handling of the crisply tailored shirt in their AW13 collection certainly didn’t disappoint. Contrasts of structure and flow, austerity and romance were evident in traditionally structured pieces with unexpected features – a drop hem here, an asymmetric embellishment there – and the waist was consistently highlighted.

The looks were mainly monochrome – in keeping with their exploration of contradictions of light and dark - and many head to toe single colour. New shapes and textures and the addition of several jackets, skirts and trousers completed a forward looking presentation with an eye on more than just the quietly beautiful shirts for which they have become known.

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Another of our Ones to Watch this year, Marques'Almeida’s AW13 collection continued their signature raw edged look, from the frayed silk hems to the models’ mussed up hair. Predominantly head to toe colour in voluminous skirts suits, layers of denim dresses over trousers and loose, shapely tailoring it was a carefully deconstructed collection of fascinating textures and flatteringly feminine shapes.

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David Koma

David Koma’s boldly structured AW13 collection held nothing back on colour, nor on shape. His stiffly waved mini skirts with ribbed layers were fembot girly and his use of leather almost armour like. Uncompromising uniformity also leant itself to the air of an army of glamazons marching down the catwalk – on each girl a defined waist (many cartoon-like) and no look below the knee.

What we most loved about this collection was that whilst it was fierce it was also feminine. Sheer panels over shoulders and décolletage, cut away shoulders balancing austerely high necks and curvy pattern with sudden sequins throwing off the harder looks. As always, his collection was as covetable as it was instantly wearable, although we might leave the 60s hair to those who are sharp of cheekbone.

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Thomas Tait

The venue for the Thomas Tait AW13 show seemed more appropriate for an edgy cop film than a high fashion show, with plenty of late night dry ice and a murderous red light. Sports luxe was dominant throughout, from the flashes of bright team colours to the use of breathable fabrics and neoprene. Leather and Lycra mixed up the textures and there was cosy ribbing and probably the most stylish windbreakers we’ve ever seen.

Whilst the setting for the collection may have been sinister, the models were accessorised with sunglasses misshapen on one side, giving the impression of single eyebrow raised comically at the proceedings. We particularly loved the slim cut flowing jumpsuit and skirt combinations that made up the first few looks and the almost cape-like colour panels on the shoulders.


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