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LFW Yuila Kondranina, Patrick Li, Zeynep Tosun, Bernard Chandran AW13

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Bernard Chandran

Bernard Chandran's AW13 show had the distinct feel of the aviary, with models adorned with beak like hats, heavily over drawn eyebrows and feather-sketched lines to their temples. We saw glorious glittering beading, wide expanses of bare back framed by circular cut outs, shimmering brush stroke prints and smart graphic patterns.

 

Colours popped and smouldered – lemon yellow, juicy orange, a sultry midnight blue – and on the whole shapes were slim fitted and natural, although we loved the curvy structured dress with rope belt. As well as being outspoken and chic, the collection was on the whole wearable, and frankly we’d like to snap up every piece.



Zeynep Tosun

Zeynep Tosun's AW13 show was defined for us by its Elizabethan ruffs that topped off a rather stately collection, complete with rich reds and golds, brocade and wildly opulent patterns. We loved the scarlet punch at the end of the show and the subtly shimmering beading on arms and skirts.


Images from fashion156.com

Leather was dominant in black and rust and there were jackets with a distinctly doublet feel. Classically opulent fabrics, such as velvet, also made an appearance and there was some almost Frankenstein-like visible stitching. But for us it was the over the knee leather waders that stood out the most – goodbye forever to rain soaked legs in AW13.


Images from fashion156.com


Patrick Li

As one of Fashion Scout's Ones to Watch, Li delivered a strong and super wearable collection. Swathes of fabric masterfully sculpting the body, leather, velvet and just the safe amount of lurex. Architectural construction of contrasting panels, fluid bias hemlines and striking shoulders said ‘world I may look like this but don't mess with me.’ We want this now.



Images from vogue.co.uk


Yuila Kondranina

Also one of the Ones to Watch, Yulia's collection left us spellbound. Seemingly evolving the thread (!) of her SS collection, Yulia's AW13 offering wound together a curious exploration in to interwoven textures, opposing forces of fluidity and constraint, Beautiful lines through lines were created through the prevalence of fringing - although this word seems to do it an injustice somehow. Intertwined, laced, fluid or caged corset style there was a hint of iconic early Gaultier. Dramatic and just darn inspirational.


 

Images from vogue.co.uk


 


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