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Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week AW13

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Roberto Cavalli AW13

 

Images from vogue.co.uk

‘Seduction’ was the key for AW13 Roberto Cavalli show at the Arco della Pace and we did fall more than a little in lust with this collection.

Monochrome and power dressing in the form of three piece suits, trophy jackets and tight tailoring appeared along statement furs in glorious multi colours. High necks mirrored the AW13 trend from other runways and there was statement neckwear aplenty.

We loved the armour like tunic dresses and prickly looking skirts, as well as the liberal use of baroque flock. Petit peaked shoulders were an interesting development and feminine details such as sequined lapels, intricate beading, as well as dropped waists and textured hems, spoke of an elegance of days gone by. Despite some rather severe centre partings these rich, ornate looks were oozing with sensuous glamour.

Show report: Jade Stokes


Versace AW13

 

Images from vogue.co.uk

Donatella named this collection ‘Vunk’-her version of Punk – and it certainly was aggressively modern. It’s not the first time we’ve seen punks for AW13 but Versace’s was the vixen version – figure hugging tartan, wet look second skin PVC and dangerously spiked boots that would do much more damage than a headbutt from a mohawk.

There was a nod to the power dressing theme but subversively done though body harnesses and artsy, skilful cuts under matching military greatcoats. Always there the omnipresent chains, zips and studs that could have come straight from Camden Market – although the tailoring of course was far from NW1. Flashes of leopard print and pop art red and yellow broke up the monochrome and metal, and the bandaged, sequined, spiked, split floorsweepers at the end knocked any Fifty Shades of Grey fantasy fetish-wear out of the ballpark.

Show report: Jade Stokes

 

Dolce & Gabbana AW13

 

Images from vogue.co.uk

If Versace’s AW13 collection was aimed at body conscious attention craving punks, then Dolce’s was for a much more sensuous, modest - maybe even pious - creature. Incorporating regal crowns, religious frescoes and Roman mosaic embellishment into some very vintage 50s shapes, the quality, workmanship and unabashed spectacle of this collection made our hearts sing.

Muted pigment colours and regally rich metallics combined with old world glamour to blow austerity out of the water, whilst the appearance of 1950s tailored tweed was perhaps the Dolce take on power dressing. Voluminous sleeves, soft curves and weighty chandelier earrings ensured the collection was all woman – no androgyny here. For the finale, a sea of ruby red cementing the sense of identity that always ensures this iconic label never drifts too far from its strong, sensual, richly Sicilian roots. 

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