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John Galliano and Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week

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John Galliano AW13

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Crisp, concise and at times restrained, this was for the most part an eminently wearable collection that displayed many of the Galliano signatures. A colour palette of midnight, black putty and plum was interrupted by abstracted swirls of colour, but overall the shade range was kept small “to be disciplined,” as Gayten himself put it.

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Wide culottes were paired with billowing sleeves, coats and jackets were exquisitely tailored and ruched tunics and a touch of bodycon gave femininity to this very disciplined show. Gayten’s wizardry almost let the fabrics speak for themselves with ruching, pleating, folding, knotting, with the richest of textures. Looks were finished off with a peaked cap and block heels, which provided continuity and grounding.


Haider Ackermann AW13

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Ackermann referred to a type of duality in his women - juxtaposing strength and fragility was very much the sense of his AW 13 collection. His passion for cut and texture shone through with layers of soft leathers, snakeskin, sheepskin, fur, silk, herringbone, wool and velvet.

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Layers and raw edges were contrasted with his signature meticulous tailoring and oversize shapes and trousers prevailed. With colours muted glacial to militaristic, his warrior women seemed subdued yet triumphant, returning from a long winter of battle.

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