AW13 Trend: Tailor Made
Suiting rears its primped and pinstriped head once again for AW13, striking an uneasy balance between office and off-duty, alluring, androgynous or avant garde.
The renamed house, well versed in flattering the fairer sex with formal tailoring, took their iconic ‘Le Smoking’ jacket and remixed it to catch the newly-revived wave of elegantly undone ‘90’s grunge. The AW13 collection saw a buckled leather mini skirt, white shirt and sequins necktie topped with a sharp black tuxedo jacket with a fine sliver of a silk lapel, an angled hem and slim arm.
Worn with checked shirts and slashed leather, over sequined dresses, with fishnet stockings and studded boots - blazers and coats stood firm in their intention to add a genteel edge. Even reincarnated in leather, the strong shoulders and fitted body sent an unmistakable message of new era tailoring, just as smart, sans the stuffiness.
Banker’s pinstripes on double-breasted coats, strikingly asymmetrical hemlines and oversized dresses with boxy silhouettes showed no sign of a bust or hint of an hourglass. An over-the-knee coat with a deep V-neckline and flirty hem with subtle flare suggested sensuality, ever so slightly, but reeled it back in with broad shoulders and a generously-proportioned torso.
Softness was gradually introduced with ruffled tops, strapless dresses and fit and flare styles but the tailored looks remained purposefully mannish. Cocooned coats added interest with vibrant colouration, hazy plaid checks and diagonal lapels, rather than opening the way for too much feminine dialogue.
A.W.A.K.E. By Natalia Alaverdian
Inspired by woodland creatures (sheep to be exact), Japanese samurai, folklore, fairy tales and popular historical dramas like ‘Gone With the Wind’, this collection was theatrical and fanciful to say the least. A.W.A.K.E. By Natalia Alaverdian (standing for ‘All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm’), the London-based collection by Russian fashion editor Natalia Alaverdian, brings some McQueen-esque costuming to modern tailoring. A red suit fit for a royal guard featured a quilted bib-front, curved lapel, high neckline and buttoned flap detail. The concept stood with conviction, making no allowances by showing a little skin for a commercially-easier collection. Cleavage and cut-outs were not on the cards, but a structurally complex pea coat, a double-breasted blazer with schoolgirl styling and a wool overcoat with the unexpected placement of a patch pocket, had us doing a double-take.
All images from Style.com