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Chanel Cruise 2014

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Image courtesy of Chanel

Last week Chanel Cruise 2014 was shown at former nutmeg plantation and army barracks in Singapore’s Loewen Cluster on Dempsey Hill – coincidentally on the same day as Karl Lagerfeld released his mini film of Coco Chanel’s first Deauville boutique - 'Once Upon A Time...' starring Keira Knightley. Or perhaps not so coincidentally as there were a number of looks that we recognised on the catwalk from the film (indicating that early Deauville 'mood' was the Collection's grounding), as well as several of the same faces – Lindsey Wixson and Stella Tenant included.

 

Lindsey Wixson as Miss Wonderbuilt.  Image courtesy of The Telegraph Fashion

The collection drew much from that first Deauville enterprise, the drop waisted dresses, the classic pearls, the Chanel palette of beige, white, off-white, navy blue as well as nautical seaside stripes and wide legged sailor's pants. There were sleek, simple bathing suits and beach cover ups in signature Chanel contrast edging, as well as some classic Chanel tailoring and a new proportion that Karl Lagerfeld is calling the ‘open skirt’ (a longer length skirt essentially missing the front panel) which he has designed specifically to look good with heels.

 

Images courtesy of Marie Claire 

The spirit of vacances was in full swing and as always with Lagerfeld there was a sense of fun – cricket whites, complete with bats– as well as some bold prints and a serious monochrome streak. Plenty of texture was provided by black sequins, lacquer painted on feathers and ruffles to create a fluttering reflection and some of the dresses towards the end had more than a dash of Gatsby-esque evening glamour – square necks, slim cuts and lashings and lashings of pearls. Providing that all important contrast, there were military chains and gunmetal mixed in with extravagant fake bling that would no doubt have pleased Gabrielle greatly, as well as a cute handbag inspired by the shape of the infamous Chanel No. 5 bottle. It was a collection that drew inspiration from the usual Cruise motivation of travel, as well as the roots of the entire Chanel label back in Deauville in 1913, but it was a vision facing firmly forward, looking to create new silhouettes, using new techniques and unusual textures, with not a retro compromise in sight.


Images courtesy of Marie Claire

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