J.W. Anderson for Versace Versus
Heralding a clash of the young and cool and the eternally overtly OTT sexy, a capsule collaboration between J.W. Anderson and Versace was always going to be a heady affair. The relaunched Versus line made its debut at New York's Lexington Avenue Armory on Wednesday under Anderson’s guidance in the telltale setting of what felt like a hip NY club.
As was to be expected, these were looks for the young and uninhibited and the uncompromising skin flashing was very Donatella (or honorary Versace Lady Gaga? It’s difficult to tell them apart sometimes…). Abercrombie & Fitch might refuse to serve ‘larger’ women in their shops, but this Versus collection was exclusive by its very construction, as you’d have to be whippet thin to pull off most of these looks. Anderson applied this standard of skinny to both men and women, introducing into male fashion for 2013 crop tops that you may or may not want to see replicated on a high street near you.
Of course the sexy androgyny was there by the bucketload, but there was nothing pretty – or sometimes even conventionally attractive – in the looks that stalked down the catwalk. But this was intentional - as Anderson said, "The whole collection has to feel jarred. I think there's a sharpness of the bridging of the [male and female]. When something is ugly and wrong, I feel that it's right. You're not used to it."
Signature Liz Hurley-esque safety pins, cut outs, asymmetric hems slashed on both sides, top of the thigh high splits, a latex pinafore dress and bird’s nest hair of toppling Mohawks gave the looks a punky feel, whilst zebra prints, sheer lace and sherbert pop colours of orange, lemon and pink, as well as the use of the classic Medusa head buttons brought just enough glamour for the collection to fit with the Versace brand. We also loved the brightly coloured satchels that were wheeled in on rickshaws, as well as the Jil Sander-esque white boots that seemed to introduce a shot of calm into the deliciously decadent chaos.
The collection goes on sale June 15th
All images courtesy of Vogue.