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AW Trend: Edgy Winter Blooms

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With the autumn winter season a whisper away, floral prints and embellishments have been adapted from their usual feminine, pastel tones to dark, edgy overripe hues introducing a melancholic mood for AW13. Ornate embroidery scattered across blackened silks and chiffons cut into sharp silhouettes, including longer skirt lengths and severe necklines, reflect a fresh spin on the traditional winter bloom, adding an enigmatic glamour to floral designs.

This dark winter romance has been embraced by designers such as Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, Dries Van Noten and Christopher Kane. For the first time, Erdem unveiled an all-black collection in contrast to his norm of overtly feminine looks and love of colour and print. Without moving away from his signature style, he injected pink flowered sequins and neon yellow accents to add a contemporary spin to the dramatic, femme-fetale feel. Muted floral prints appeared on shift and tulip-shaped dresses, while cropped jackets were adorned with appliqued flowers for a hyper-real quality. By playing with textures and using sheer fabrics to form different hemlines to the skirts, Erdem created a deliciously ladylike collection with a moody yet sophisticated edge.

Erdem images courtesy of ElleUK

Emilia Wickstead opted for an elegant take on winter florals with hints of burnt oranges, reds and blacks at the forefront of her chosen palette. Neutral toned silk dresses and tops were the perfect backdrop for large floral prints in an array of signature autumnal colours. Paired with fifties full skirts, dark florals took on a perfectly polished look and reflected the style awakening and poise of 1950’s working women.

Emilia Wickstead images courtesy of Fashionising

Christopher Kane demonstrated a delightful craftsmanship to the third chapter of his AW13 collection. Burgundy, cobalt blue and black were the key colours channelled throughout whilst flowers were embroidered onto the finest lace in a demonstration of enviable workmanship. Floral trimmings and feathers were worked into the seams of sturdy coats, on the edge of collars and pleats of skirts, showing his classic reinvention of luxury staples.

Christopher Kane images courtesy of ElleUK

For AW13 Dries Van Noten introduced feminine accents to masculine separates with Asian influences, pops of colour and a mix of textures to add elegant glamour. Opulent embroidered florals and paisley prints featured heavily on everything from coats to shirts and dresses, infusing feminine flair for the season. Tempered with sharp tailoring, the decadent feminine touches were given an androgynous twist.

Dries Van Noten images courtesy of Vogue

Louis Vuitton, Giambattista Valli and Valentino were other designers who moved away from the pastel shades and flirty flowery prints, and gave their designs a mysterious undertone lending a modern edge to florals. We think: team this trend with stained lips, smoky eyes and tousled hair to set the tone for a hot horticultural AW look.

Valentino images courtesy of Glamour Magazine

 

Words by Lauren Estill.  Edited by GP.

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