AW13 Trend: The roaring 1920s Jazz age continues
Image courtesy of Vogue
With the stardust sprinkled by The Great Gatsby having been falling around us for some time, it was inevitable that art deco decadent looks would hit our catwalk during the spring and summer collections. The roaring 20’s and the hedonistic jazz age are a continuing trend this AW 13/14, adopting bold colours, deco jewels, T-bar sandals and, of course, the obligatory flapper dresses. It’s all about going all out on the glamour front - as Daisy Buchanan said, ‘A little party never killed anyone...’
Image courtesy of Ashley Isham on Fashion Scout
Of all the up and coming designers who provided their take on the glamorous 1920’s look, Ashley Isham’s signature draping and razor cut tailoring mixed with a blend of high end glamour and contemporary chic made our pulse rates rise the fastest. Dresses were bright, halted at the knee or full length, finished off with jewels, both on the model and dress. The full length dresses didn’t detract from the raw 1920’s thrill, as they were boldly coloured with draped necklines. Materials such as satin and lace were used to highlight femininity and subtly altered versions of similar looks provided something for every age. The pieces oozed power, sensualisation and sexuality, creating a tasteful collection fit for any modern flapper.
Image of Vanessa Bruno courtesy of Vogue
Vanessa Bruno’s collection applied a modern twist to the 1920s flapper trend. Opening her show with charcoal pinstripe tailoring, large jackets and sharp white collars, masculine-feminine was the definite vibe. Softening the looks, her pieces then moved on to short skirts and thick V-neck vests. Diamond sequins decorated the final outfits and pale grey tailored boyfriend jackets also graced the catwalk. Jackets with ribbed white leather details brought a whiff of the 1960’s but with the silver beading finish all roads led to the 1920’s. Cara Delevingne had the final walk in a white shirt-tailed slip dress covered in sequins, making it clear that this collection was an Art Deco winner.
Image of Emporio Armani AW13 courtesy of Elle UK
Armani took a different approach to the 1920’s trend for AW13 by using dark colours and mysterious looks rather than the bright, vibrant pieces we had been used too. Called ‘Kajal’, the collection focused on dark shades like black, midnight blue, burgundy red and the deepest green, playing with pale palettes of face make-up. The label also wrought havoc with shape and volume, making silhouettes stand away from the body and using rough-cut on coats. The collection worked with velvet for the finale dresses in aubergine, purple and ruby. Cloche hats invited 20’s comparisons throughout and sharp shoes from jewelled moccasins to men’s lace ups graced the walkway. Large, exaggerated gems gave the 1920’s jazz age trend a modern spin.
Image of Bora Aksu courtesy of Lifestyle Yahoo
Using key colour palettes such as neutrals, greys, beiges and tans shades, London based designer Bora Aksu sent us directly back to the 1920’s, via a futuristic undertone, with his AW13 collection. Unique headpieces, chiffon dresses and dropped hems all appeared in his work but towards the end there was colour in the form of hot pinks, and deep purples. Scalloped edges, lace work and embellished beading were just a few of the skills nodding in the direction of the 1920s, whilst tight corsets and edgy crop tops introduced a sexier vibe.
Words by Lucy Acton. Edited by GP.