AW13 Trend: Oversize Coats & Masculine-Feminine Tailoring
Stella McCartney image courtesy of Dazed & Confused
This year we've been lucky to experience one of England’s warmest summers and as much as no one is quite ready to give up floaty tank tops and vintage cut-offs, let's face it: Autumn fast approaching. At The Glass Pineapple we thought that we could take the ‘ugh’ out of the end of summer by looking at our favourite coat trends for AW 13/14.
For AW13 it’s all about investing in an oversized, statement coat, particularly one with a broad, dropped shoulder and a minimal silhouette. Ranging from classic and subdued palettes of blues and greys to the sweetest pastel shades, there are many uplifting options that would make for the ideal pick-me-up on blustery cold days. And if this year you’re looking to invest in staple pieces this luxe, larger than life outerwear offers the perfect opportunity.
This season a combination of masculine lines and oversized elegance is where you will find perfection - big is beautiful. Toughened shoulders and clean lines are lending a no-nonsense approach to coats and jackets, as witnessed at big name designers like Celine, Stella McCartney, Hwan Heo, MaxMara and Louis Vuitton who juxtaposed mannish overtones with more than a hint of ladylike glamour – as we have explored below...
Celine images courtesy of Vogue
Celine demonstrated a classic, feminine colour palette of peach and pink which took over their outerwear looks and was paired with chunky knits and ladylike separates in heritage style navy blues and slate greys. Styled with checked pencil skirts and tough ankle boots, the collection highlighted a boy meets girl way of thinking. Shapes were of course serene and soft, and the gently ballooning proportions were relaxed with colour, for a new take on masculine styling.
Louis Vuitton images courtesy of Vogue
At the Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton presentation, floral print slip dresses with hand-sewn sequins towards the hem were juxtaposed with bold checked coats and structured shapes. Reigning in on a vintage style aesthetic, slinky dresses were adorned in dainty floral prints and glamorous hues of lilacs, maroons and indigos which created a beautiful backdrop for the more autumnal shades of burnt orange and mustard. But paired with the collection’s standout ankle sweeping, mannish coats - with oversized lapels and buttons - Louis Vuitton created a wonderfully whimsical subversion.
Stella McCartney images courtesy of Vogue
Stella McCartney introduced the most exaggerated shoulder of the season, which gave her tartan wool overcoat an extra added impact. With tailored outerwear at the forefront of her AW13/14 collection, McCartney’s relaxed and sophisticated aesthetic continues to thrive, whilst remaining fresh and current. With a spectrum of dark purple hues she reflected confident tomboy attire and displayed an easy way to oversize - simply contrast volume with slimline structures for a stylish pairing of opposites.
MaxMara images courtesy of Vogue
MaxMara showed the key to any successful wardrobe (or fashion label) is the ability to combine practical elegance with well-designed simplicity - a blend of all the key components contemporary requires. With directional design offset by stylistic details and classic shapes, the MaxMara collection embodied the options for the perfect oversized investments. Large proportions took centre stage, with shoulders and sleeves inflated and ruched. The mannish silhouettes were relaxed, elegant yet smart – proving oversized shapes really do speak volumes.
Heohwan Simulation images courtesy of Vogue
Up-and-coming London based womenswear brand Heohwan Simulation was established by designer Hwan Heo and for AW13 injected a sophisticated take into oversized tailoring, incorporating feminine elements with menswear design. His unique style shows a fresh take on silhouettes, enhancing them with layering, fine details, prints and embroidery for a playful mix of structure and texture. The cocoon shape was a central reference in the collection along with a recurring theme of fashion and social history. With his clean aesthetic and nod to historic references, Hwan Heo added a contemporary twist to outerwear.
In a wider context, this AW season, oversized outerwear appeared in an eclectic mix of collections that tapped into fashion's current fascination with masculine-feminine dressing. It looks like this trend is one that is going to go stellar come Autumn – for now though it’s doing a great job of taking our minds off the chill in the air…
Words by Lauren Estill. Edited by GP.