London Fashion Week: Hellen Van Rees SS14
The Hellen Van Rees ‘Fuzzylayerglossbox’ presentation channelled nostalgic elegance with futuristic vibes - 1920’s silhouettes of drop waists and high hemlines added to the opulence while silks and high-shine fabrics kept the looks modern. Her signature hand-woven tweeds played a substantial role in the designs and gave her modern prints a classic twist. There was a delicate balance between old and new, classic and contemporary which expressed a unique design vision and reinterpretation of 21st century dressing.
Following the hype triggered by the likes of Lady Gaga and the Noisettes sporting her designs, there was plenty of anticipation in the room before the Hellen Van Rees SS14 presentation began. The theme of the show was set by the ambient music and creative wall projections, models paraded with numbered cards around the show space while each design lit up under the spotlights.
Backless gowns in multi-coloured woven tweeds sat beautifully against the refined monochromatic colour palette, transporting us to a futuristic adventure of colour and texture. The models looked serene and composed, like ballerinas, and the ancillary elements complimented the designs beautifully – poised and polished make up with luminous skin and a pop of colour on the lips while the hair was elegantly pulled back in a dishevelled up-do. The textured tweed wedged heels and boxy clutch bags were the perfect finishing touches to the refined looks on display.
Rather than opting for sculptured shapes, Hellen chose chic, ladylike silhouettes; stunning black and white silks were paired with iridescent black and white gold fabrics while geometric shapes leant a modern edge to the 1920’s feel. The Glass Pineapple managed to have a quick chat with Hellen to congratulate her on her stunning collection – “Classic Chanel tweeds continue to be my inspiration when designing, but this season I wanted to make the collection more feminine yet still modern, so I have mixed classic textures with contemporary cuts and prints.”
Van Rees’ inspiration of ‘The Boardwalk Empire’ was executed perfectly; she successfully created a contemporary, wearable collection that exuded the glamour of the Great Gatsby era, while still retaining that all-important modern-day edge. This perfectly illustrates the ultra-modern, yet classic and wearable quality that flows through all her work and demonstrates why we think this is just the start of a very great adventure for Hellen Van Rees.
Words by Lauren Estill. Edited by GP