London Fashion Week: JW Anderson SS14
(Images courtesy of Vogue)
It seems that JW Anderson can do no wrong. Branded Ireland's hottest export, courting rumours of a buyout by French conglomerate LVMH and undoubtedly one of the most watched designers at London Fashion Week, Anderson is proving that he’s got a whole arsenal of sartorial surprises up his minimalist sleeve. His latest collection captivated and delighted the eagerly awaiting crowd, particularly the ITkids FROW of Alexa Chung, Daisy Lowe and Pixie Geldof.
Coining the term 'avant-bland' to describe his collection, Anderson's ideas seemed to stem from mundane kitchen drudgery. His show notes cited takeaway boxes and wipe-clean tablecloths as inspiration, which were transformed into handbags and dresses respectively. But don't be fooled - his collection was far from ordinary. Exploring the conceptual minimalismfor which he's become renowned, Anderson opened the show with ruched dresses in shimmering nylon, their asexual bin-bag aesthetic juxtaposed by the sensuality of the sheer wispy georgette fabric. For a classically androgynous collection, there was certainly a lot of flesh on show - we're positive that fashion editors will be clamouring for his sheer square crop tops next season.
Fusing deconstructed classicalism with Oriental sensibility and restraint, Anderson artfully folded and pinched fabrics to create origami-esque shapes, whilst minimal accessories and embellishments ensured a pure focus on form.There was even an unexpected feminine twist in the collection, a peculiar prettiness in the Ancient Greece inspired pleats, whilst bow detailing exuded an obvious femininity. Offering the crowd an almost tactile experience, Anderson skilfully integrated opposing fabrics: silk with polyester, leather with pleather and cotton with nylon. Accompanying the novel items, JW's signature pieces made an appearance: his twisted jumpers, asymmetric knotting and sculptural hemlines were welcomed additions to an alluringly eccentric collection.
Show report by Nikki McMullen. Edited by GP.