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Paris Fashion Week SS14: Highlights Part 1

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Anthony Vaccarello 

Images courtesy of Vogue 

Anthony Vaccarello is rumoured to be the next Versus collaborator and as a result his show attracted a considerable amount of attention as fashion week kicked off in Paris for the SS14 season. Bodycon lines were strong and in the sexy tailoring and pulse racing thigh/hip cut outs it was easy to see how the collaboration with Versus might be a creative meeting of minds. His designs left plenty of room for the flashing of leg, décolletage and shoulders and extreme cleavage saw several pieces slashed from neck to waist. Peek-a-boo worthy mesh, bold industrial embellishment, a dash of tie dye and variations on the three piece suit theme left us wondering with delicious anticipation what a Vaccarello-Versus love child might look like.

 

Alexis Mabille 

 

Images courtesy of Vogue

There was a distinct WWII forces theme at Alexis Mabille’s SS14 show, with khaki and navy in abundance, utility pockets as detail and chic 1940s style headscarves adding to the make do and mend feel. Some of the looks – loose, wide trousers, a Hurricane-esque jumpsuit, and a latex trench – had a distinctly vintage air but there were also more modern lines, including a scalloped asymmetric wrap skirt, bias cuts, hoods and a billowing maxi. The collection was big on the details, from the jaunty boot tassels, to the spiky gems that adorned several miniskirts and the whiff of bondage from visible bras. A slightly surprising moment was the intrusion of a cowboy sub-theme, emanating from those tasseled boots and cantering through a selection of suction-tight jeans and appliquéd denim. 

 

Balmain 

 

Images courtesy of Vogue

We love, love, love Balmain here at the Glass Pineapple – for their ongoing shoulders obsession, for their unabashed brashness and for that tongue in cheek sense of fun that allows the label leeway that others just don’t get. For SS14 it was all about the 80's (what other decade for a shoulder obsessive label), with Joan Collins vibes via houndstooth two pieces, pin stripes and a couple of drop waisted ra ra skirts. That eighties staple, the belted white jumper, returned over a slimline glistening split skirt of glamorous netting and there was shoulder flashing, ruffles and even a leather jumpsuit. As if to reinforce the flashy message, the runway was populated with the likes of Georgia May Jagger and Rosie Huntington Whiteley, and let’s not even get started on the FROW.

 

Olympia Le Tan

Images courtesy of Vogue 

There was no mistaking the gloriously nautical themes at Olympia Le Tan SS14, all washed down with a sizzling dose of 50s pin up style. Sailor stripes adorned dresses, tops and hotpants, and Daisy Lowe wore a Victory roll with a flirty little pink satin print dress made 3D by a petticoated pleated skirt and cute white collar. Fish scale embroidery, nautical bibs, sailor caps and anchor earrings reinforced the seafaring motifs, whilst fishnet tights and pretty white Mary Janes with scalloped edges completed the looks. The pin up style was evident in copious amounts of visible suspenders, a snappy little pink trench, playsuit and matching striped short and top combos – not to mention the corset, waspies and fisherman’s net look. What a catch.

 

Lanvin


Images courtesy of Vogue

If we were to say that Alber Elbaz’ SS14 collection had the colour palette of a Quality Street box it would be meant as an enormous compliment (who doesn't love the crinkly wrappers of The Purple One or a Toffee Penny, after all). A shimmering metallic paint pot of chocolate box colours made this a most mouthwatering presentation – with shades of pistachio, toffee, lemon and praline all making an appearance on lamé, silk and tulle. From the belted waists and ladylike lengths, to the abundance of bows and ruffles, the looks oozed femininity – but not in a pretty girl next door way, rather as a Patti Smith style rock goddess with a serious whack of attitude. Jumpsuits and shirt dresses, drop waisted midis, loosely tailored separates and even a touch of Chanel-esque tweeds made up a wardrobe we could do some damage for. Other than an interlude of monochrome tailoring, with wide, inflexible belting, the eccentric glamour was non stop – and it’s this relentless pursuit of shimmering perfection that is the reason that Elbaz got such a riotous response at the end. We were on the tips of our toes.

Show reports by Alexandra Pett

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