Fashion Scout - Merit Award and Ones to Watch
The September shows are nearly upon us and Fashion Scout has announced the recipients of its Merit Award and Ones To Watch accolades. The designers that are singled out for this recognition often go on to do great things – David Koma, Phoebe English and Eudon Choi are just a few of the past winners of the Merit Award, for example. So, if you’ve got an eye on the future of fashion these awards offer essential insight.
Merit Award winner – Han Wen
New York label Han Wen is the eponymous work of a Chinese designer with an intense appreciation of the fusion points between art and fashion. Han Wen names John Galliano as one of his all time icons, and the bravery and innate femininity of his designs, as well as the ability to use textiles to tell stories, are in a similar vein to JG. A Parsons’ graduate with a strong sense of his heritage, Han Wen has created a label that pulls together couture elements into RTW collections that are exciting and diverse. For SS17 his work is defiant and romantic, a collection that illustrates the perspective of a man who appreciates the power of women. Look out for the gold hardware and the pleats. We are big fans already.
Ones to Watch
The four designers recognised as ‘Ones to Watch’ for SS17 are: Ana Ljubinkovic, Anissa Aida, Billie Jacobina and Ester Kubisz. If you follow us on Instagram you’ll notice that we’ve already been showcasing some images of the work of these exciting up and coming talents. Ones to Watch is designed to be a launch pad for new fashion brains – and we think these four are destined to go far.
Ana hails from Serbia and her designs are part traditional handicraft, part futuristic pioneer with textures and textiles that shouldn't go together but somehow just work. Bold and captivating, her uncompromising style is all about exploring contradictions, from kitsch religious iconography, to aggressively sculpted hips and waists. We predict this show will be one of the boldest of Fashion Scout – watch this space.
Cool and unconventional with an emphasis on tailoring, we loved the work of Anissa Meddeb as soon as we saw it. Parisian born, but Tunisia-raised, Anissa is a graduate of Parsons and has also interned with Marc Jacobs Accessories in New York City, A.P.C. in Paris and Ethologie in London. Her designs draw on the mix of influences in her heritage and an innate love of style that breeds boldness and new perspectives.
You may have noticed Billie Jacobina at Graduate Fashion Week where her graduating collection from UCA Rochester won her the Indonesian residency award. Her collection - C-Lyf – is brave and colourful, weaving in a range of different textures and prints to create a series of truly unique looks. We loved the playful silhouettes and searingly bright shades (and the blue wigs). As well as appearing at Fashion Scout, Billie is working with Indonesian brand Lekat for Jakarta fashion week 2017 - big things are on the horizon.
The tailoring is what struck us most when we first came across the label Ester Kubisz with its innovative approach to textiles and desire to turn tradition on its head. The unisex styling and tearing up of pinstripes challenge all sorts of constructs of respectability and gender, and we love the stylish transition of distressed classic fabrics into cutting edge looks.