The professionals: Copenhagen Fashion Week’s leading designers
As August arrives, so too does Copenhagen Fashion Week, complete with a schedule to see out the summer in style - quite literally. The CPHFW SS18 collections hitting the catwalk from the 8th to the 12th August bring together both new and better known designers, all driving the innovative aesthetic the Danes have become notorious for. In previous years, we’ve seen novel fabrics combined with contemporary shapes, debuts from designers such as Stine Goya, and a representation of both Danish and international talent. As you’ll find out over the next few days if you follow us on Instagram this is one of our favourite fashion events. And to give you a taste of what to expect we’ve selected five of this year’s more established designers to show you what the Danes can do. You’re welcome.
After launching her contemporary menswear label in Berlin, Verena Schepperheyn has developed a collection portfolio that’s a masterclass in men’s tailoring. The designer’s specialities include embroidery, statement prints and textile manipulation in pieces that maintain a sharp, masculine shape. Her AW17 collection was all about stripes – we loved the cropped trousers and flourishes of graphic embroidery; a modern take on the traditional pinstriped suit.
In previous seasons, glittered looks, and sheer shirting have transgressed from standardised masculinity, proving Schepperheyn’s cutting-edge credentials.
Another designer who likes to challenge the norm, Nicolas Nybro’s calling cards are conceptual clothing and costumes - his most recent AW17 lookbook displays perfectly how his work challenges modern beauty standards. Pink sweatshirts embellished with giant pearls, and peach ruffled dresses meet oversized accessories, proving that not all Danish design is minimal.
And you may be more familiar with his designs than you think – epic haired popstrel Sia sported one of his more flamboyant pieces for the 2016 Voice finale. Granted, a giant bow isn’t for everyone, but his slogan sweatshirts make just as much of a statement.
‘Fashion must be playful’ – that’s the mission statement from Danish designer Stine Goya, and it’s easy to see this inspiration in her clothes. Collections are designed to ‘encourage women to express their individuality’ and flowing jumpsuits and trouser suits offer a relaxed, comfortable femininity. If you thought Hilary Clinton had dibs on the pantsuit, think again.
Creative director Roy Krejberg has continued Danish brand Ivan Grundahl’s rebellious edge since he took the helm. The label started in 1973, but since then, it’s created a signature style that puts a twist on uniform dressing by using distressed materials and layering. The AW17 collection saw dark shades and structured outerwear - if you like a slightly grunge aesthetic and you’re looking for a new, cooler take on it then you may have just found your style inspo.
And to finish, we’re coming back to where we started, men’s tailoring. It seems only fitting to end with Martin Asbjørn, a label that was founded in Copenhagen in 2012, whose mixing of sharp and soft tailoring creates an elegant, yet relaxed feel, summing up exactly what Copenhagen fashion is all about. The SS17 collection brought together statement checked suits with t-shirts, and suede khaki jackets – tough and princely all rolled into one.
By Elizabeth Kennedy