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London Fashion Week Men's SS18

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The Glass Pineapple has a womenswear focus. However, there is no doubt that over the past couple of seasons we’ve been subtly drawn to some of the men’s collections. This could be something as simple as the fact that many now feature female models or it could be that we’re starting to see less and less gender distinction when it comes to fashion. This season we even went to some of the shows. Here’s what we found…

Michiko Koshino

Michio Koshino SS18

It was ‘Let’s all go to the ballgame’ this season at Michiko Koshino, a throwback to childhood memories of a Japanese baseball team in the designer’s hometown of Osaka in the 1940s and 50s. #teamkoshino brandished baseball bats and pitcher’s mitts and there was even a ‘fashion’ version of full catcher’s padding. Heritage fabrics were teamed with lightweight nylons and ultra modern textures drawing a link between the vintage and the new. Striped pants and luxe sweatshirts appeared alongside loosely layered sportswear, cropped pants and Hi Vis detail. The imagery was strong – black and white vintage prints and baseball themed creative. Yes, it was a sporty collection but seemed born of the mean streets too – this team had plenty of swagger. The Good News collaboration baseball style sneakers were the perfect finishing detail.

Full show report and images

Michiko Koshino SS18

Images shot for us by Kerry Curl

Songzio

Songzio SS18

Zio Song’s SS18 Songzio collection was beautifully themed by ‘Man, in his night, searches for his own light’ – i.e. look, men have feelings too. It perfectly represented what we have come to love about LFWM in recent years, which is this sense of a prising open of society’s expectations of the male as dark and strong and unfeeling to reveal something much more colourful, creative and vulnerable underneath. SS18 seemed the collection of a travelling man, from the loose fit Nehru suits, to the tasselled pants and fairground leathers. We loved the stripes, which were reminiscent of both deckchairs and pyjamas – we couldn’t decide which. The blue and coral/orange looks in layers of stripes were the stand out pieces for us. Half sleepy, hazy chateau days, half dapper dandy, they made some seriously slick impact.

Full show report and images

Songzio SS18 

Images shot for us by Maps Studios

Berthold

Berthold SS18

When you create a collection around the dual themes of masculinity and conflict the result is always going to be bone shakingly bold. Raimund Berthold’s SS18 collection at LFWM was riddled with themes of uncomfortable conflict, in particular the inspiration of child soldiers in African countries, brutally, naively violent but painfully vulnerable too. Vibrant colours in semaphore stripes and curves brought some sunshine into the collection – in particular the searing yellow, heightened blue and red – but everywhere else the shade was dark, brooding and potentially explosive. Oversized shapes and overwhelming hems and sleeves hinted at lost innocence while bare, chiselled chests and floor sweeping tailored coats and jackets reminded us that in every boy there is the potential to be MAN. And all that entails.

Full show report and images

Berthold SS18

Images shot for us by Maps Studios

Blood Brother

Blood Brother SS18 

What happens when you combine the aesthetics of Bladerunner, the intrigue of Nineteen Eighty-Four, a little bit of David Brent and lashings of 80s futurism? Blood Brother SS18 that’s what. The BB Corp was both awesome and intimidating, a celebration of the tech driven world we’ve created - “PLUG IN TURN IT ON” – and a spine tingling hint at the consequences (“SAVE ME”). Graphic tees, bomber jackets and tops explored visuals, from fast cars to tech, and the ongoing theme was plug in, turn on and escape all the harm of the self inflicted human experience. 80s tailoring, skater jeans and baseball caps shifted attention from one vintage decade to the next and textures ranged from sticky wet vinyl to liquid silk, denim and suede. A couple of the looks were pure asylum - vaporisation and the Thought Police seemed to be only a step away.

Full show report and images

Blood Brother SS18

Images shot for us by Maps Studios 

KTZ

KTZ SS18 

KTZ delivered a stylish kind of anarchy to the catwalk for its SS18 collection, bringing together intricate detailing and tailoring with some unrepentantly aggressive themes. Khaki short suits accessorised to look as if stapled together a la Frankenstein, shirts made from ring pulls, punky denim and staple skinhead silhouettes sat alongside a drifting cape and a Berghain ready leather short playsuit. Models in head to toe black bore the badge of Club of Nowhere inked in white alongside a spattering of symbology and what looked like an arm of cub scout badges (always be prepared). Whether it was Armageddon or anarchy that drove these designs the overall effect was of an intimidating occupying force.

Full show report and images

KTZ SS18

Images shot for us by Kerry Curl

Nigel Cabourn

Nigel Cabourn SS18

In the year that marks the designer’s 50th anniversary, Nigel Cabourn’s SS18 collection was dedicated to Sean Flynn. Flynn – son of Errol Flynn - was a photojournalist working in Vietnam and Cambodia in the late 1960s and never came home from the war. The collection, entitled “What Happened to Sean Flynn,” was both a tribute and an uncomfortable question. Images of Flynn lined the walls and the aesthetic was a mix of military and utilitarian. Models in camo, denim and tan suede were free to move, walk and shoot (a camera) thanks to loose fit braces and pants, shorts and shirts in faded shades from olive, to khaki, to mustard. Silhouettes were classic – aviator jackets, combat pants, military caps – but the styling was London 2017, from the cropped lengths, to the pulled back cap peaks. Emotive and questioning, the collection was uniformly cool and reserved and one of the few that combined men’s and women’s looks with genuine ease.

Full short report and images

Nigel Cabourn SS18

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