Paris Fashion Week Preview
Paris Fashion Week might be the end of the shows from the big four cities this season but the iconic combination of global heavyweights and exciting emerging talent makes it a case of ‘last but not least.’ This season the emerging designer itinerary ranges from Veronique Leroy’s signature 80s style, to a multitude of budding Japanese creatives in the K-Fashion Project show. These up and coming designers are set to end Fashion Month on a high, and so we thought we’d introduce them ahead of the main event – et voila.
The Belgium based designer has already been graced with the Dries Van Noten Award and the International Woolmark prize for his previous collections, with their trademark layered graphics and vibrant colours. His AW17 ready-to-wear collection was all about prints, from tight knit florals layered with paisley to striped looks in a varied colour palette. The collection was unapologetically busy, but with flowing shapes offering a contrasting bohemian feel to create a bold yet relaxed aesthetic.
Another prize winner, Lutz Huelle has been praised for reimagining wardrobe staples, winning him the biggest fashion prize in France (the ANDAM Award) not once, but twice. The AW17 collection saw archetypal outwear styles but not as we know them; the humble denim jacket was enhanced by black quilted panels, which finished at ankle length in some looks. Cosy traditional cardigans received the same treatment, adding a dynamic twist to the Christmas jumper. One of the most memorable looks, despite its brilliant simplicity, was a mac style with oversized sleeves and shoulders. If you’re a fan of a spin on a classic, then this will be the show for you.
Veronique Leroy is a prime example of how years spent perfecting a craft can lead to a masterpiece – or plenty. Born in 1965, the designer’s impressive CV includes assisting Azzedine Alaia at the start of her career and working with Moroccan designer Martine Sitbon. In 1991, Leroy decided to go it alone and launched her own label with collections ripe with elegant and sensual 80s influences. Her previous collection mixed high necks with velvet and metallic detailing to create a touch of vintage style with modern tailoring. She’s also not shy to throw in an oversized accessory, an element we love.
A scheme devised by the Korea Institute for Fashion Industry, the Korea Fashion Association, Vogue Korea, Colette and Tranoï, the K-Fashion Project show displays work from five leading emerging Korean designers. This year’s finalists include Beyond Closet, General Idea, KYE, Tibaeg and MOON J. Beyond Closet are the epitome of effortlessly cool, as the brand blends athleisure styles with tailoring; think suits with badges and tracksuits with shearling coats. General Idea’s collections also have prominent streetwear influences, you can expect shirts with slogans and track-pant style trousers in the SS18 collection. KYE’s collections have a bold attitude, which strays away from traditional perspectives on femininity. SS17 saw cut out jeans and hoodies with lace up sleeves - if your Saturday night go to is a statement crop top, look no further for your weekend inspiration. Tibaeg and Moon J are the more classic of the five, with the former producing flowy dresses with chiffon details. Moon J’s previous collection had a psychedelic 60s feel to it, with graphic prints appearing on peplum tops and miniskirts reminiscent of a certain Vogue Paris September cover from 1965.
Anne Sofie Madsen
Anne Sofie Madsen’s learning is evident in the quality of her work – this is a designer who previously trained under John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Her designs draw inspiration from abstract concepts, such as the moment when fashion replaces the body, creating looks with heavy contrasts. For example, her Heaven or Las Vegas collection featured barely-there tops made purely from fishnet and contrasting giant flared trousers. That particular collection was partly influenced by Elvis Presley’s mixed identity and the underside of the American Dream; Madsen’s skill is to take something that’s familiar and completely turn it on its head with what she creates.
Despite only graduating with her BA in fashion design in 2013, Dutch born Liselore Frowijn has since been taking the fashion world by storm, winning both the Chloé prize in 2014 and making it as a finalist at the international Fashion and Photography Festival. In advance of her SS18 showcase at Paris Fashion Week, the designer offered a sneak peak of her collection, which is the product of a collaboration with graphic designer Michiel Schuurman. The result is 10 layered looks, which feature vibrant carnival colours and complex prints alongside futuristic metallics. The display also includes three pieces of art designed by the pair, adding another layer to the collection.
By Elizabeth Kennedy
Lutz Huelle https://www.lutzhuelle.com
Veronique Leroy https://www.veroniqueleroy.com
General Idea http://www.generalidea.co.kr/collections/ss18.html
Liselore Frowijn http://www.liselorefrowijn.com/resort-2018/