Up and Comers: Copenhagen Fashion Week’s exciting new designers
One of the most exciting things about Copenhagen Fashion Week is the support it provides for promising new designers. Each year, there are shows dedicated to graduates from leading Scandinavian fashion colleges, emerging designers, and up-and-coming labels. The eclectic mix of talent demonstrates why CPHFW is the perfect stepping stone for designers poised to make their mark on fashion. If you thought newness meant uncertainty, think again.
The Designers’ Nest Award is presented to a fashion student who shows particular skill and promise. Organised under the patronage of HRH Crown Princess Mary, the show is a springboard for some of the most notable emerging talent. Expect everything from adventures in textures, to silhouettes that seriously challenge the norm. AW17 brought elaborate ruffled dresses and 3D flower tops, draping, ruching and volume in a swathe of sweetshop shades and metallics.
Design School Kolding
This Danish design school’s graduates are known for their forward thinking work – the school follows an ethos of designers together with users finding sustainable and inclusive solutions in a playful manner. The fashion graduates that emerge from Kolding tend towards the cutting edge and have a fearless approach when it comes to switching up perceptions of fashion and form. If innovation in style is what you seek then the graduates of the Design School Kolding rarely disappoint.
Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design
Scandinavia’s only private fashion school has had a long-standing place in Copenhagen Fashion Week’s schedule, providing the perfect platform for its students. Last year’s show saw abstract cuttings of different fabrics merged together in the form of asymmetric dresses and flared trousers, plus a tiny, mini prom dress. Part abstract, part ABBA and all exceptionally aesthetically exciting.
CFW Talent Scene
And then there’s the CFW talent scene, which highlights some of the event’s most exciting new designers ahead of start of CPHFW in earnest. This year Heliot Emil is one of the featured labels, a Danish brand created by brothers Julius Juul and Victor Juul, who titled the label in honour of their great-grandfather. Their unisex collections are designed to be thought-provoking, embracing challenging topics and global concerns as inspiration – the SS18 collection is inspired by post-combat trauma, with the distressed materials and subtle references to uniform making for a visually powerful collection.
Designers Maiken Bille and Svanhvit Móra Sigurdardottir bring their brand Mai Svanhvit to CFW talent scene this year. Launched in 2006, the brand has a sustainable ideology, with the two designers using cutting methods specifically designed to minimise the amount of wasted material. Mai Svanhvit loves a sleek and traditional aesthetic - for SS17 it was minimal, relaxed trouser suits, and asymmetric hemmed dresses.
By Elizabeth Kennedy